Textile & Fashion World

Introduction: 

There are many types of sewing machines. Some are used for special purposes such as bar tack machine, button hole machine etc. This type of machine works in a cycle and so they are called simple automatic machine. Here we study on such a type of machine that is flat lock sewing machine.

Objectives:
1.To know about the machine parts.
2.To sketch the thread path.

Specification:

• Brand : JUKI
• Model : MFD 47605U
• Type : Flat or Cylinder bed
• Group : Chain stitch
• Needle no : 3
• Needle name: UY-128
• Needle size: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21
• SPM : 2500-6000
• TPI : 25-35

Adjustment : Thread, tension, needle, pressure feed, stitch density, looper etc.

Function : Sewing all types of knitted cloth.

Different parts:

1. Thread stand
2. Thread guides
3. Disc type tensioner
4. Pressure feed lever
5. Thread take-up lever
6. Needle
7. Looper

Description: 

This machine may be of flat bed or cylinder bed type. In our lab 21, 22 nos. machines are flat bed and 32 no. machine is cylinder bed type. Flat bed is used for sewing body cloth and cylinder bed is used for sleeve cloth. In this machine 4 needles may also be used and sewing may be done using from 4 to 9 threads. Sewing with flat lock machine the most quantity thread is needed. For example for sewing 1 inch cloth up to 32 inches thread is needed. The SPM of this type of machine is usually 6000 and 8-16 stitches may be done per inch. It is a very expensive machine and is used for mainly sewing knitted goods but also used for making woven cloth.

Conclusion: 

This type of machine can not be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment their importance can not be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this will be very helpful in my future life.

 

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/fat-lock-sewing-machine.html#ixzz2OHlTALI4

Flow Chart of Denim Production:

Introduction:
For the clothing industry there is a great diversity of regular and special machines for sewing every conceivable type of garment and it is this variety which enables clothing manufacturing to employ specialized equipment for their own particular requirement. These sewing machines are used for sewing fabrics and garments, leather goods, sacks, tents; bags etc. There are many types of sewing machines. Some are used for special purposes such as Chain Stitch machine, Flat Lock machine, Feed of the Arm machine etc, this type of machines works with continuous sewing and so these are called automatic machine. Here we study on a type of machine that is Blind Stitch sewing machine.

Objectives:

1. To know about the machine parts.
2. To sketch the thread path.
3. To know about sewing mechanism of blind stitch sewing machine.
4. To know the working principle of blind stitch machine.
5. To know the types of needle, its no, size, SPM, group, TPI of the machine.

Machine Specification:

• Name : Industrial blind stitch machine.
• Brand : Brother
• Model : CM3-B938
• Group : Chain stitch
• Needle no : 1
• Needle name : LW´6T
• Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21
• SPM : 2500-3000
• TPI : 3-4 inch Sample

Function: Attaching hemming & facing.

Different parts:
1. Thread stand

2. Pressure feed lever 

3. Skip stitch device

4. Thread guides

5. Thread take-up lever 

6. Stitch length adjustment 7. Disc type tensioner
8. Needle Looper

Adjustment point:
1. Thread 

2. Tension 

3. Needle
4. Pressure feed 

5. Stitch density 

6. Looper.

Description:
The stitch produced by this machine in the fabric is not shown from face side and so this is called blind stitch machine. Usually curved needle is used in this machine as it can penetrate in the fabric partially. The needle comes out from the side of the fabric through which it penetrated. Again in maximum blind stitch machine optional skip device is attested by which it is possible to penetrate the outside layer after one or two stitch. The speed of this type of machine is up to 2500 SPM and the stitch length can be 3 to 8 mm long. Usually one thread is used to make the stitch but two threads may also be used. In case of two threads blind stitch, it is safe from opening. Mainly for attaching hemming or facing this machine is used.

Fig: Blind Stitch sewing machine

Conclusion:
Blind stitch machine is one of the important sewing machines in garment factory of making a complete garment. This type of machine cannot be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment their importance cannot be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. By this practical we learn about the different parts, thread path and blind stitch sewing system in a practical manner. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. 

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/blind-stitch-sewing-machine-study-on.html#ixzz2OHtz6C95

Flow Chart of Sample Making

Garments Design or Sketch ( Manually or Computerized )
↓
Basic Block ( Manually or Computerized )
↓
Working Pattern ( By Machine )
↓
Sample Garments ( Manually )
↓
Problem of Production or Production Related Matter

↓
Costing.............................................↓ ..................................Send to Buyer

↓
Approved Sample
↓
Production Pattern ( By Hand or Computer )

Read more: http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/03/process-flow-chart-of-garments-sample.html#ixzz2OHXKz0YZ

Following instruction must be marked on apparel pattern, to enable the garment to be made up correctly: -
1. Style Number.
2. Name of the part
3. Size ( it will show you how to find your size on a pattern finished garment measurements)
4. Grain Line: All patterns must have grain lines. It indicates the length direction of fabrics, i.e. during marker making all patterns must be placed to the length direction.
5. Balance Mark: Used to ensure patterns are sewn together at the correct points.
6. Construction Lines: These include button holes, pocket placing etc.

Garment Patterns Construction:

1. Manual Method.
2. By Computer (CAD).

Principles of Pattern Making:
A garment sewing pattterns or garment fabric & patterns draft is developed by calculating, taking account of the following measurements: -

1. Direct Sample.
2. Specification Sheet/ Measurement Chart.
3. Actual body size measurements.
4. Easy Allowances.
5. Sewing Allowance.

Pattern Draft:
A pattern draft is a diagrammatic representation of the way a garment is constructed. The objective of pattern draft is to develop a sample garment.

Pattern Sets:
Different sizes of pattern for a particular style are called pattern sets, e.g. L.M.S.

Production Pattern:
The pattern se which are used for huge production is called production pattern.

 

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/05/description-of-apparel-garment-patterns_3015.html#ixzz2OHY7MNAb

A seam is a method of joining two or more pieces of materials together by a row of stitching. The purpose of most of these seams is purely functional and can be called as constructional seams. Seams should be as flat as possible and unseen except those that are used for decorative purposes for garment design and line.

Seams can be classified into flat seams and ridge seams. Plain seam and flat fell seam are examples of flat seams. Ridge seams include the French seam. Seams may also be divided into conspicuous and inconspicuous seams. Inconspicuous seams when finished will not have stitches seen on the right side of the garment, example are plain, corded and French. Conspicuous seams are those that have stitches seen on the right side of the garment like run and fell seam, lapped seam etc .

 

Types of Seam:

A.Plain Seam

B. Lapped Seam

C. French Swam

D. Flat and fell Seam

E. Bound Seam

F. Slot Seam

G. Counter Seam

A. Plain Seam:
This is the most widely used seam which is pliable and inconspicuous. It is used on all types of fabrics except on very transparent kinds and is suitable for firm fabrics that do not ravel and will not be subjected to hard and frequent laundering. This is used for side seams, under arm seams ad armhole seams. Place the two pieces of fabrics to be joined together right sides facing. Work a line of tacking stitches on the seam line and machine (Fig.A).

Fig.A

B. Lapped Seam:
This seam is commonly used for joining a gathered or unaltered section to a straight edge as in a yoke. Take the part of the which is to be laid on top and turn its seam allowance to the wrong side. Place this piece on the top of the second piece, right sides facing and matching the fold to the seam line. Tack in position and machine close to the folded edge (Fig.B).

Fig.B

C. French Seam:
This is a ridge seam and is used on transparent and light weight fabrics, especially on baby clothes and delicate blouses. It is a neat and durable finish as the raw edges are completely enclosed (Fig.C). It is a neat and durable finish as the raw edges are completely enclosed. The two pieces of materials to be joined are placed together with wrong sides facing. Work a row of stitching 1/8 inch. Press the seam and turn the work so that the right sides are together. Crease the first row of stitching so that it is directly on the edge. Tack and stitch along the seam line about 1/8 inch from the fold.

Fig.C

D. Flat and fell Seam:
This is a flat durable seam used on men’s sports shirts, work clothes and children’s clothes and pyjamas. Places the pieces to be joined wrong sides facing and stitch on the seam line. Press both seam allowances together in the same direction and trim the under seam to 1/8 inch and the upper one to 3/8 inch. Turn under the raw edge of the wide seam allowance so as to make a smooth fold ¼ inch wide. Machine stitch close to the folded edge on the right of the garment. The right side of the seam will show two rows of stitching and wrong side will show only one row of stitching (Fig.D).

Fig.D

E. Bound Seam:
This seam is formed by folding a separate binding strip over one or more plies of material and seaming the strip with one or more rows of stitches. They are frequently used as an edge finish at necklines, hems and sleeve plackets (Fig.E).

Fig.E

F. Slot Seam:
This is a variation of lapped seam and is often used down the center front or center back of skirts, coats and dresses. This gives a decorative effect when a different coloured fabric is used for the backing piece stitched in between the two pieces of fabric, which are lapped on to it (Fig.F). Machine baste on the seamline, leaving long threads at each end. Press open the seam. Cut a 1 ½ inch wide underlay of same or contrasting fabric. Center it under seam and baste.

Fig.F

G. Counter Seam:
This is also a durable flat seam used for very thick materials, men’s wear and reversible garments. This can be made by one of the two methods.

Method I
Turn down a little on wrong side (WS) of one piece of fabric and on right side (RS) of the other piece and iron them firmly. Keep wrong side of the first piece of fabric on the right side of the second piece along the edges, maintaining the seam allowances, and tack it in position. Machine stitch along the folded edges (Fig.G). This is called three-layered counter seam

Fig.G

Method II
Turn down 0.5 cm on the wrong side of one piece of fabric and on right side of the other and iron them firmly. Keep wrong side of the first piece on the right side of the second piece and slip the turned down edges under each other. Pin it in position, tack it and machine stitch along the folded edges from the right and wrong sides (Fig.H). This is called four-layered counter seam. 

 

 

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/11/what-is-seam-types-of-seam.html#ixzz2OHgWBkie

Introduction:
Interlinings are used to support, reinforce and control areas of garments such as collars, hems, facings and the fronts of jackets and coats. They may be sewn into the garment or they may be attached by means of fusing.

Although fusing is now very common as a method of garment construction, there are many fabrics which are not suitable for fusing, as well as the small manufacturers who do not have the requisite equipment. The complexity of interlinings used varies greatly between tailored wear, especially menswear, and other types of garments.

Objectives:

1. To produce collar and cuff of a basic shirt.
2. To know how to use fusible interlining.
3. To know about how to sew the collar and cuff attached fusible interlining.

Working Procedure:
At first we made the pattern of collar and cuff. Then we cut the fabrics according to the pattern design. After cutting two pieces of fabric for collar was taken and similarly two pieces of fabric for cuff was taken.

Then, interning for collar was taken and placed on one part of the collar fabric. Then that interlining was joined by proper heat. After that, another part of collar fabric was joined with that interlining part and then by sewing we got a complete collar part for a basic shirt.

Similarly, we get a complete part for cuff of a basic shirt.

Lab Condition:
During this experiment we faced some minor problem, like unavailability of sewing machine. Moreover there occurred a huge gathering in interlining section, which killed a lot of time.

Conclusion:
Interlinings are available in a wide variety of weights and construction to match the properties of the garment fabrics they will support. They can be woven or non woven, both of which can be constructed to give a different softness or resilience in different directions. And our teacher helped us properly to get a proper knowledge about that interlining. And this knowledge may be very helpful in our future industrial life.

Introduction:
There are many types of sewing machines. Some are used for special purposes such as Feed of the Arm machine, Industrial Overlock machine etc. This type of machine works with continuous sewing and so they are called automatic machine. Here we study on such a type of machine that is Feed of the Arm sewing machine.

Objectives:
1. To know about the machine parts.
2. To sketch the thread path.
3. To produce a sample.

Specification:

• Brand : JUKI
• Model : MFD 47605U
• Type : Flat bed.
• Group : Chain stitch
• Needle no : 2
• Needle name : EYX128
• Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21
• SPM : 3000-3200
• TPI : 15-20

Main Adjustment Points:
1. Thread.
2. Tensioner.
3. Needle.
4. Pressure feed.
5. Stitch density.
6. Looper.

Different parts:
1. Thread stands 

2. Thread guides
3. Disc type tensioner 

4. Pressure feed lever
5. Thread take-up lever 

6. Needle
7. Looper

Description:
This machine may be of flat bed type. In our lab 31 no. machine is Feed of the Arm machine. In this machine 2 needle, 2 loopers may also be used & sewing may be done using from 4 threads. Sewing with Feed of the Arm machine, 1 inch cloth up to16 inches thread is needed. The SPM of this type of machine is usually 3000 and 8-16 stitches may be done per inch. It is a very expensive machine and is used for mainly sewing Jeans, Grabidding goods & Double stitching pants.

Conclusion:
This type of machine can not be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment their importance can not be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this will be very helpful in my future life. 

 

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/feed-of-arm-sewing-machine-study-on.html#ixzz2OHl6wEEw

Objectives:
1.To know how to make a pattern for trouser.
2.To know about its importance.

Introduction: 

A pattern is the actual copy of different parts of a garment that is made by cutting board paper after sketching on it. According to this pattern cloth is cut and then garment is made. For industrial production different patterns are made for different size and a marker is made with these different patterns for a large-scale production. Then many cloths are cut at a time and finally garments are made by large number of workers in garments industry.

Functions: 

Now making a pattern has some functions. These are as follows:
1. To sketch the parts primarily according to the body on paper.
2. To make pattern for different size by increasing measurements.
3. To make a marker for large-scale production.
4. To use these patterns made by standard body measurement for many times.
5. Finally to save time and money to make fast and cheaper production.

Measurements for trouser: 

For making different sizes pattern our students are divided in 7 groups. I was in group 2. A pattern size for trouser is indicated by its waist size. Group 2 was given waist size 74 cm. Now for making a pattern of trouser other measurements are given below:

Parameter Measurement:

• Waist 74 cm
• Seat 94 cm
• Body Rise 27.2 cm
• Inside leg 79 cm
• Bottom width 24 cm
• Waistband depth 4 cm

Now the parameters are discussed below:
Waist: It is the joint place of the upper body and lower body of human.
Seat: There is a point at the bottom centre of a trouser that is called cross point. Now the seat is about 6-7 cm above this cross point.
Body Rise: Body Rise is the sum of front rise and back rise.
Inside leg: The measure along the sewn from the cross point to the bottom.
Bottom width: The diameter of the bottom of a trouser.
Waistband depth: it is the depth of waistband where the belt is we wear the belt.

Different parts of a trouser:  

A trouser has the following 6 parts:
1. Two sides of leg: Top side and bottom side (both has left and right part).
2. Waistband: Two pieces for left and right. Left piece is bigger because of having hooks.
3. Belt loops: According to the wish of pattern maker there may 5, 6 or 7 loops.
4. Fly piece: Two pieces for left and right.
5. Pocket back: There are total 4 pieces with 2 pieces for each left and right side.
6. Pocket facing: Two pieces for left and right side.

Apparatus:
1.Board paper – 2 pieces
2.Pencil 2B - 2 pieces
3.Eraser - 1 piece
4.Meter scale - 1 piece
5.Set square - 1 piece
6.Calculator
7..Scissor - 1 piece

Working procedure: 

For the advantage of working the procedure is divided in 4 parts:
1.Top side
2.Under side
3. Pocket bag
4.Pocket facing
5. Fly piece
6.Waistband.

1.Top side
At first take a board paper and spread it on a flat table. Mark a point at the left top corner of board paper keeping space from top about 1 cm and from left 21 cm. Give this point number 0.

Now from 0 draw 3 lines at right angles to each other to the bottom, right and left sides. Then;

0-1 Body rise 27.2 cm + 1 cm. Spread the line both right and left side at right angle.
1-2 Inside leg 79 cm. Spread the line both right and left side at right angle to 1-2 line.
2-3 ½ of (1-2) + 5 cm. Spread the line both right and left side at right angle to1-2 line.
1-4 ¼ of body rise. Spread the line both right and left side at right angle to 0-1 line.
1-5 1/12 of seat + 1.5 cm. Draw a normal from 5 on 1-5 line that indicate 6 & 7 points.
6-8 ¼ of seat + 2 cm.
5-9 1/16 of seat + 0.5 cm.
7-10 1 cm. Draw front curve adding 9, 6 & 10 points.
10-11 ¼ of waistband + 2.5 cm.
2-12 ½ of bottom width.
2-13 ½ of bottom width. 

Then joint 12-14 & 13-15 with straight lines. During making curve 11-8 expanding 0.5 cm at outside and 8-14 compressing 0.5 cm at inside lines are drawn. During making curve 9-15 compressing 1 cm at inside lines are drawn.

2.Under side
Now on the same board paper this pattern is drawn. But the paper is rotated at 180º angles that the previous topside now becomes the bottom side and the bottom side into topside. Mark a point at the left top corner of board paper keeping space from top about 1 cm and from left 21 cm. Like the previous topside pattern 1-16 is drawn and then;

5-16 ¼ of 1-5. Draw a normal from 16 on 1-16 line that indicates 17 & 18 points.
19 Mid-point of 16-18.
18-20 2 cm.
20-21 1 cm.
9-22 ½ of 5-9 + 0.5 cm.
22-23 0.5 cm.
Then draw beck fork adding 23, 19 & 21 points.
21-24 ¼ of waist + 4.5 cm.
25 Mid-point of waist (21-24). Draw a 12 cm length line from 25 point at the bottom at right angle to 21-24 line and make 2.5 cm width dart.

17-26 ¼ of seat + 3 cm.
12-27 2 cm.
13-28 2 cm.
14-29 2 cm.
15-30 2 cm. 

Then draw side seam adding 24, 26, 29 & 27 points and draw inside leg adding 23, 30 & 28 points. Mark a point D at 12 cm distant from point 25. This is the mid-point of face for making back pocket. At mid distant of 12 cm indicate the width of pocket 14 cm. Now adding 5 cm hem allowance the topside and under side patterns are cut.

3.Pocket bag
On the topside pattern mark a point A at the point 28. Then;
A-B 5 cm.
B-C 19 cm.
B-F 17 cm.
F-E 32 cm.
E-D 17 cm.
Adding A, B, C, D, E & F points the pocket bag is drawn. Now the 2nd board paper is taken and this pocket bag is copied on this.

4.Pocket facing
A point B is marked at suitable place under or side of the pocket bag. Then;
B-C 19 cm + 2 cm.
C-D 6 cm.

5.Fly piece
Mark a point A under the pocket facing. Then;
A-B 24 cm.
A-C 5 cm.

6.Waistband
A point G is marked under the fly piece keeping available space. The waistband has two parts: Left part and right part.

Left part
G-H 4cm
G-I ½ of waist
I-J 4 cm
H-K 0.5 cm
Add G, I, J, H & K.
I-L 4 cm (fly piece extension)
Draw a normal on the expanded of HJ line.

Right part
The same drawing from G-K is drawn. Then;
I-M 9 cm (button stand extension)
Draw a normal on the expanded of HJ line.
Now after adding necessary allowance to the pattern pieces these are cut.

Precautions:
1.The table should be flat and smooth.
2.The pencil used should be soft and sharp.
3.The eraser should be clean.
4.During drawing the line should be drawn at a time.
5.No over drawing is allowable.
7.Measurement should be taken carefully.
8.To draw normal set square should be used.
9.The scissor should be sharp.
10.When cutting the seam should be cut at a time otherwise rough edge is produced.

Conclusion:
Skillness, technical knowledge, analytical power of drawing and special ability on technology of making garments are necessary for pattern making. Special care is very essential here because if any fault is occurred during making pattern such as design or measure or lack of any piece and if these faults are not corrected before marker making then the whole production is cancelled. So we should have clear idea and sufficient knowledge on pattern making and should be very careful during pattern making.

 

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/02/garments-pattern-pattern-making-to-make.html#ixzz2OHeb8m1P

Objects:
01) To know about various classes of seams.
02) To produce the seams on fabric by sewing machines.
03) To know the formation & construction process of various seams.

Different Types of seam :
01) Class-1-Super imposed seam
02) Class-2-Lapped seam
03)Class-3-Bound seam
04) Class-4-Flat seam
05)Class-5-Decorative seam
06)Class-6-Edge Neatening(Over Lock)

01) Super imposed seam:
The seam of class-1 is called superimposed seam. This is the most common & mostly used seam for joining fabrics. In this seam, two plies of fabric are placed on one another perfectly & then the fabrics are sewn. The sewn edges of the fabrics remain in the same side.

Uses:
In side seams of shirts, trouser, children wear etc. Piped & French seam are used for decorative purposes.

02)Class-2- Lapped seam:
The seam of class-2 is called lapped seam. At least two plies of fabric is required to produce this type of seam. The two Sewn edges remain in two opposite sides of the sewing line/seam line.

Uses:
This class of seam is not mostly used for sewing garments. This seam is used in sewing jeans pants, lunges etc.

03)Class-3- Bound seam: The seam of class-3 is called bound seam. For producing bound seam at least two plies of fabric are required. The edge of One ply of fabric is bounded by the other. Folder is used in sewing machine for producing bound seam.

Uses:
Used in sewing men’s underwear, Guernsey, pants, sleeping suits etc.

04)Class-4- Flat seam:
The seam of class -4 is called flat seam where zigzag stitches are used by 2-needle sewing machine. In this seam two plies of fabric are placed side by side & then they are sewn together by zigzag stitching.

Uses:
This seam is widely used in under garments & in knitted items.

05)Class-5-Decorative Seam:
The seam of class-5 is called decorative seam. This seam is used in order to decorative purpose. The fabric which we used that would be folded in several times and then according to the under side of the folded part of the fabric stitch can be produced.

Uses:
Cartains,Table clotchs,Furniture wears,Decorative ladies wears et

06)Class-6-Edge Neatening:
The seam of class-6- is called edge neatening which is used to holds the edge of the fabric such that the yarns of the fabric can not open easily.All the over Lock stitch is edge neatening class seam.

Uses:
To protect the fabric edge such that the warp yarn of the fabric can not easily open.

Conclusion:
This experiment is very helpful to us. By this experiment we can learn about various types of seams. This experiment will be helpful for our future practical life. So we should be done this experiment very carefully & sincerely.

Introduction:
Seam and stitch are related to each other. Because stitch can not be made without seam and vice versa. Seam is the join between two or more plies of pieces of material. Seams are usually formed by sewing. Sewing is done by joining one or more threads or loops of threads with intralooping, interlooping or interlacing. Stitch is the unit of this sewing.

Every unit of a seam line formed by interlooping, intralooping or interlacing of one or more threads is called stitch. When one loop of a thread is passed through another loop of same thread it is called intralooping. When one loop of a thread passes through another loop of another thread it is called interlooping. When one loop of a thread passes over another loop of another thread it is called interlacing.

Objectives:
1) To identify different types of stitches.
2) To observe the formation and structure of stitches.
3) To know about the uses of various types of stitches.

Theory:
About 70 types of stitches are found using and from these types 18 to 20 types of stitches are mostly used in garments industries. All types of stitches are classified into 6 classes. They are

1. Stitch class-100 : Chain stitch
2. Stitch class-200 : Hand stitch
3. Stitch class-300 : Lock stitch
4. Stitch class-400 : Multi thread chain stitch
5. Stitch class-500 : Over edge/Edge neatening chain stitch
6. Stitch class-600 : Covering chain stitch

Now they are described below:

Stitch class-100: Chain stitch:
Chain stitches are produced by one or more needle threads and are charcterised by intralooping. One needle thread is passed through the fabric, form needle loop and is secured by the next loop formed by the same thread. Thus stitches are produced. This type of stitches is much unsecured. In case of the break of any stitch, it unravels very easily. The most common type of stitch is stitch calss-100 is stitch type-101. As it is very unsecured it is used for biasting operations which are temporary stitching operation for the positioning of collar, cuff and flaps etc.

Stitch class-200: Hand stitch:
This type is originated from hand stitches. It is produced from a single thread. This thread is passed through the fabric from one side to another and the stitch is secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the garment. Hand stitching is a time consuming and costly operation which needs high skill for good appearance. Stitch type- 209 is used at the edges of jackets. For producing this stitch a special type of needle having at the middle and sewing machine is used. Normally this type of stitch is used in costly dresses.
 

Stitch class-300: Lock stitch:
This type of stitches is produced with two or more groups of threads. Here the two threads are joined by interlacing. Loops of one group are passed through the material and are secured by the thread of second group. On e group is referred as needle thread and other as bobbin thread. This stitch has enough strength and same appearance on both sides. Lock stitches are also very secured and don’t unravels in case of yarn breakage. The disadvantage is bobbin contains less thread and so runs out during sewing. As a result the bobbin is again threaded after sometimes which time consuming and disgusting. Lock stitch is extensively used for joining fabrics collar, cuff, pocket, facing etc. Top stitching is used for button holing, attaching, blind stitching etc.

Stitch class-400: Multi thread chain stitch:
This class is formed with two or more groups of threads. Loops of one group of thread are passed through the material and are secured by interlacing and interloping with loops of another group. Here on group is called needle thread and another group looper thread. The most common is stitch type-401 which is produced by one needle thread and one looper thread. It has an appearance of lock stitch on the top but has a double chain effect formed by a looper thread on the under side. Sometimes stitches in this class are called ‘double lock stitch’ because the needle thread is interconnected with two loops of the under thread. Here the possibility of seam pucker is very less. Again all threads are supplied from cone packages so there is no possibility of running out thread. This type of stitches is used foe sewing lace, braid and elastic. Stitch type-401 is used in jeans and trouser.

Stitch class-500: Over edge/Edge neatening chain stitch:
The stitch type in this class is formed with one or more groups of threads. Here at least one group of thread passes around the edge of material. So no thread from the fabric can come out. The most frequently used stitch of this type have one or two needle threads and one or two looper threads and thus forms a narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric. A trimming knife of the machine ensures a neat edge prior to sewing. Stitch type-504 is formed of a needle thread and two looper threads. This class of stitch is used for edge neatening and for producing seam in knitted fabric. The extensibility of this stitch is very good. The width of this stitch is 3-5 mm. This stitch type can be used to make a decorative neated edge.

Stitch class-600: Covering chain stitch:
This type of stitches is generally produced with 3 groups of threads. Threads of two groups can be seen from either side. The first group of thread is called needle thread, second is called top cover thread and the third is called bottom cover thread. The stitches of this class are very complex and up to 9 threads can be used in producing these stitches. For producing stitch type-606, 4 needle threads and 5 other threads are required and it is called flat lock. Flat lock stitches are used in knitted fabrics especially in under wears. It is also used in decorating leisure wears. Stitch type-602 is used for attaching laces, braids and elastics in garments. Moreover it is used in decorative stitches and top stitching.

Conclusion:
The experiment gives us an idea about different types of thread and their parameters that will help me to choose a good thread. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this experiment will be very helpful in my future life.

Straight knife cutting machine is the world’s most popular and most versatile. Available in all standard electrical configurations, with the largest variety of sizes and blade speeds in the industry. It is widely used in Bangladeshi garment industry.

Straight knife cutting machine

Feature of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:

1. Suitable for mass trimming cotton, woolen, linen leather and chemical fiber goods, etc.
2. Neat cutting, small-curvature radius curvilinear cutting.
3. Low noise, stable running, easy to operate and high efficiency.
4. Incorporated with an auto knife-grinding device, easier to operate.

Structure of Straight Knife Cutting Machine:
The Straight knife cutting machine consists of a base plate, an up right stand to hold the vertical blade, motor, a handle for moving assembly, a sharpening device and a handle to transfer the whole assembly from one place to another.

Two kinds of power are required to operate a straight knife. Motor power drives the reciprocating blade and operator power drives the knife through the lay. Normally the available blade heights very from 10 cm to 33 cm and normally available strokes vary from 2.5 to 4.5 cm. The greater the blade movement the faster the blade cuts the fabric and more easily the operator can move the machine.
1. Knife
2. Sharpener
3. Motor
4. Fabric presser
5. Base plate
6. Moving handle
7. Transport handle

The most important consideration is selecting a straight knife is the power required from the operator to move the knife is the power required for the operator to move the knife through the lay. Operator effort is affected by the weight of the motor, the shape of the stand, handle height, stroke, sharpness of blade and the base plate movement.

The normal blade has a straight edge that varies from coarse to fine depending upon the type of fabric being cut. Wavy edged knifes are used to reduce the heat generation and hence can be used for cutting synthetic materials without fusing difficulties. The speed of the blades can also be adjusted by having variable speed mechanism.

The straight knife is a common means of cutting lays in conventional cutting rooms because it is versatile,, portable, chapter than a band knife and easy to maintain. Even if a band knife is used for main cutting operation, a straight knife will be used to separate the lay into sections for easier handling. 

 

 

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Fabric Spreading:

This is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of laying plies of cloth one on top of the other in a predetermined direction and relationship between the right and wrong sides of the cloth. The composition of each spread i.e. the number of plies of each color is obtained from the cut order plan. Number of plies depends on:

1. Capacity of the cutting machine
2. Volume of production
3. Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery)
4. Thickness of fabric

Types of Fabric Spreading:

The spreads can be of two basic types:
 

1. Flat spreads- all plies are of the same length.
 

2. Stepped spreads- this as the name suggests, is built up in steps, with all the plies in one step having the same length. A stepped spread is generally used when the quantities to be cut precludes the use of a flat spread. The cut order plan details the colors and ply lengths for a stepped spread, if it is needed. 

 

Requirements of Spreading Process:

1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of fabric must be at least equal to marker length and width.

2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming fabrics will be tagged and will be avoided.

3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all faces up, all faces down, face to face etc.

4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.

5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are used under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife.

6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defect in garments due to variation in dimension.

7. Checks and stripes should be matched.

Automatic Programmable Spreading Machines:
All the requirements of spreading process can be fulfilled by fully automatic spreading machines. Their features include:

1. Automatic loading/unloading and threading/rewinding device for fabric rolls.
2. Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay.
3. Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment.
4. Automatic cutting device (one way or two way cutoff) at the end of a run.
5. Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension.
6. Automatic lay height sensing elevator.
7. Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying.
8. Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min. 

Stitching is the last section of towel manufacturing. In stitching section work is done according to the following flowchart:

Towel

The Working Procedure of Stitching Section:
» At first material is received from wet processing department. Then roll cutting i.e., warp way separation is done manually by using knife.

» Then the towels go to ribbon section. Here 2 long sides 9Selvedges) are stitched.

» Up next; comes the piece cutting section. Here small pitches of towels are separated from a large piece by cutting with a scissor.

» Then by using over lock m/c the 4 selvedges of the small towels are sewn.

» Then level is attached with the towel by sewing this is known as level sewing.

» Then the towels are sent to the quality Control Section where they are graded as A/B/C/D grade.

» Next the towels are sent to the special QC for further quality check-up.

» Then they are sent to the quality audit section. If the towels pass in this section then they are sent to the level confirm section.

» In level confirm section the levels are checked in order to assure the correct level has attached.

» Then the towel are folded in the folding section & then packed in a poly bag.

» Then they are sent for quality assurance audit.

» If the towels pass in the audit; then cartooning is done according to the Spec Sheet.

» Next final inspection is done. If everything is found ok in the final inspection; then the towels are sent for shipment. 

 

 

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