Textile & Fashion World

A bast fiber used for sacking, burlap, and twine as a backing material for tufted carpets. Jute is one of the most affordable natural fibres and is second only to cotton in amount produced and variety of uses of vegetable fibres. Jute fibres are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose (major component of plant fibre) and lignin (major components of wood fibre).

• Cellulose → 65.2%
• Hemi-cellulose → 22.2%
• Lignin → 12.5%
• Water Soluble matter → 1.5%
• Fat and Wax → 0.6%

Rooty Jute: in these jute the lower parts of jute fires contain barks.

Specky jute: this defects occur because of insufficient washing which causes the outer barks to adhere in some places

Croppy Jute: this is a defect where the top end of the fibre become rough and hard. It is usually caused by careless steeping.

Knotty jute: the jute fibres contain knots in places and it is caused by insect bite or punctures.

Dezed or Dead fibres: due to over retting in moist condition, the fibre becomes dull, lose strength and becomes inferior for spinning.

Runners: this is a defect where long and hard barky ribbon of fibres remains in jute fibre.

Hunka: defects caused by non-removal of dried up base and hard bark from the fibres.

Mossy jute: fibres from short plants that cannot be properly stripped and cleaned contain broken piece of jute sticks etc.

Flabby or Fluffy jute: due to careless stripping, fibre loses firmness and becomes flabby and hairy

Heart damage: These defects occur when jute fibre contains excess moisture when baled. The centre of the bale becomes badly tendered and in some cases fibres are reduced to powder.

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/ 

Jute is a natural biodegradable fiber with advantages such as high tensile strength, excellent thermal conductivity, coolness, ventilation function et al.1-2. Recently, due to the improvement of people’s living standards and need for environmental protection, the demand of natural biodegradable and eco-friendly fibers is rising worldwide day by day. Ramie, flax, hemp and some other vegetable fibers have been used as textile materials, but jute fiber is basically used for traditional purposes such as manufacture of sackings, hessian, carpet backing and the like. Taking account of the costliness of ramie and the shortage in sources of flax, and the challenges from the synthetic fibers in the traditional jute products market, if jute could be used to replace ramie and flax partially as textile material, not only the cost could be reduced but also a new market would be provided for jute products.

Jute fiber is a bast fiber obtained from the bark of jute plant containing three main categories of chemical compounds namely cellulose (58~63%), hemicellulose (20~24%) and lignin (12~15%), and some other small quantities of constituents like fats, pectin, aqueous extract, et al. Jute fiber is composed of small units of cellulose surrounded and cemented together by lignin and hemi-cellulose10-11. The low cellulose content, coarseness, stiffness, low extensibility, low grip performance and some other disadvantages seriously restrict the raw jute fiber from spinning. So a series of wet chemical processing sequences are needed to improve the spinnability of jute. The qualities of the fiber and yarn mostly depend on the degumming effect. So degumming is one of the most important sequences in the chemical processing of jute.

Generally, there are three methods for degumming, i.e., mechanical, chemical and biological methods. The mechanical methods such as steam explosion2,14, microwave and ultrasonic 15 have very limited effect on improving the spinnability of jute fiber. Biodegumming is an eco-friendly method has some advantages viz. mild conditions and high efficiency. However, the application of enzymes for degumming is hindered by some factors such as high substrate specificity, low activity stability, high cost, and low total gum decomposition16-18. The chemical method is the most commonly used method for degumming, but this traditional method has some major disadvantages like serious environmental pollution, lengthy time required and high cost 19. Taking account of these problems, it is urgent to improve the degumming method for natural fibers.

In our previous study, the pre-chlorite treatment of jute fiber before degumming has been reported to lighten the burden of degumming and enhance delignification20. In this paper, we report the chemical degumming of the pre-chlorite treated jute fiber. Both the gum decomposition and the spinnabilities viz. fineness, breaking strength and breaking extension were tested to optimize the conditions for degumming. Changes in the constituent content of the treated jute fiber were also analyzed.

Materials and Method:
Materials
Jute:
Lightly combed and dewaxed raw jute fiber.

Chemicals:
Sodium chlorite and sodium silicate, Acetic acid, sodium acetate, sodium hydroxide and sulphuric acid , Penetrating agent TF-107B and degumming agent TF-125A .

Methods
Pre-chlorite treatment
The samples were treated in a bath with sodium chlorite 1.5g/L, pH 3, liquor ratio 1:10, and kept at 30℃ for 30 min. and then thoroughly washed.

Scouring
The pre-chlorite treated jute fiber was treated with sodium hydroxide 5-30g/L, sodium silicate 1.0-5.0g/L, TF-107B 0.5-6.0g/L, TF-125A 1.0-8.0g/L, and kept at 60-100℃ for 60-240 min. with fiber to liquor ratio 1:10-1:40. At the end of the desired treatment, the fibers were neutralized with sulphuric acid, and then thoroughly washed with distilled water.

Testing
Breaking strength and breaking extension were tested using a XQ-1 fiber breaking strength machine in a constant 20℃ temperature and 65% relative humidity room (in accordance with ASTM Method D-5035). The fineness was tested according to GB/T12411.3. The constituent contents were tested according to GB/5889–86.

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/ 

Jute yarn is generally available in single and multiple twists. Available in various specifications, these cater to needs of developing market. Winding in cylindrical, conical and cone less spools or hanks is done as per prerequisites of our customers. This excellent jute yarn finds extensive application in carpet industry.

Now we will discuss about the types of jute yarn and batch selection technique of jute yarn.

1. Hassian Warp: 

These types of yarn are good, clean and free from specks with high lusture. For manufacturing this type of yarn, clean and defect free jute is required. To make this type of yarn clean and defect free jute is required. 

Batch Selection: 

Hard jute .......................................70%
Soft jute ........................................30%

Example: For 8 lbs/spyndle hassian warp

White C........................................40%
White X ...................................... 40%
Tossa ...........................................20%

2. Hassian Weft: 

Hassian weft yarn is cleaner and softer than hassian warp yarn. So for hassian weft clean fibre is required, but fibre of lower strength can be used to hassian weft yarn.

Batch Selection: 

For Heavy Yarn

Hard jute..................................30%
Soft jute ...................................70%

For Light Yarn

Hard jute .................................50%
Soft jute ...................................50%

Example: For 8.5 lbs/spyndle hassian weft

White C ...................................40%
White X ...................................40%
Tossa ........................................20%

3. Sacking Warp: 

Sacking warp jute yarn is good and strong. Specks and colour is not important when manufacturing this type of yarn. So, 70 to 80% Tossa jute can be used.

Batch Selection: 

Hard jute ................................... 60%
Soft jute .....................................40%

Example: For 8 lbs/spyndle sacking warp

X bottom ..................................67%
S M R ......................................33%

4. Sacking Weft: 

Sacking weft yarns are low quality yarn. It is coarse and is made from low grade jute fibre. It may contain line cuttings, bale cuttings, soft and hard waste, rope waste, jute dust, habijabi and entangled jute.

Example: For sacking weft

NC .......................................................70%
S M R ..................................................15%
Caddis ..................................................5%
Thread waste and gunny cuttings............10%

5. C.B.C (carpet breaking cloth):

Batch Selection: 

Hard jute ................................... 100%

Example: For 8 lbs/spyndle C.B.C warp

B.W.B ....................................... 40%
B.W.C ...................................... 60%

Example: For 8 lbs/spyndle C.B.C weft

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/ 

Jute Handicrafts: Notebook, Pen holder, Greeting cards, Photo frame, file folder, Gift Box, Memo Box, Tissue Box, Slip Pad Holder, Jute Wall Hangings, Jute Coasters, Jute Table Mats, Jute Hammocks, Jute Lamp Shades, Jute Stationery 

Jute Textile: Jute Hessian Cloth or Burlap, Jute Geo Textiles, Jute Yarn, Jute Hydro-Carbon Free Cloth, Jute Carpet Backing Cloth (CBC), Jute Canvas,

Jute apparel

Jute Apparel: Jute Jacket, Jute Footwear, Jute Fashion Accessories 

Jute footwear

Jute Furnishings: Jute Mats & Durries, Jute Cushion Covers, Jute Fabrics, Jute Blinds, Jute Rugs, Jute Carpets 

Industrial Jute Goods: Jute Felt, Jute Webbing

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/ 

1. Jat
2. District
3. Northern

Jat:

• Jat is the finest quality jute with firm
• It has good color and length
• It has good luster

This type of jute fiber grows in the district of Mymensingh, Dhaka and Comilla. 

Jute plant

District:
District jute is close to jat in quality.

• The fiber is not uniform in textures and strands
• Its color varies from light ream to dull grey
• Its length is shorter.

There are two types of District jute. They are-

1. Hard district
2. Soft district

Hard district:
The hard district jute is better than the soft district.It mainly grows in the district of Faridpur

Soft district:
This type of jute grows in district of Noakhali,Pabna,Barisal,Jessor,Khulna,Sylhet,Lower Comilla,Chittagong and some part of Dhaka.

Northern:

• Northern jute is of somewhat inferior quality.
• The fiber is dull-colored fluffy hairy and barky
• Generally medium length and weak.

This type of jute grows in District of Rangpur, Dinajpur, Bogra and Rajshahi.

Jute is a natural vegetable fiber under the category of bast fibers like flax, hemp, kenaf and ramie. Since ancient times, it has been traditionally grown in the eastern part of the Indian subcontinent, which make up of the present day West Bengal of India and plains of Bangladesh. Grading is done after the barky ends are cut off. There are six grades both for White and Tossa jute. The characteristics specified for various grades are given below.

Jute fibers are graded according to three qualities of fibers. They are-
On a basis of fiber properties:

I.Length
II.Strength
III.Fineness
IV.Color
V.Lusture
VI.Roots and cleanliness and uniformity in color.

On the basis of color:
There are two colors-  

1. White and golden
2. Brown to red Corresponding to the main varieties capsularies and olitorius.

On the basis of export:

1. A bottom
2. B bottom
3. C bottom
4. X bottom

On the basis of quality of raw jute

1. Pucca grading
2. Kutcha grading

Pucca Grading:

Raw jute from which roots have been cut.

White Jute:
Bangla white special (BWS): White or creamy Finest texture Very good luster, clean, well hackled Completely free from any defects of jute Entirely free from red ends

Bangla White-A (BW-A): White to light cream Fine texture Strong and very good luster, clean Completely free from red ends and any blemish

Bangla White-B (BW-B): Light cream to straw color Good texture Strong and good luster, well hackled Free from blemish and red ends excluded .

Bangla White-C (BW-C): Light grey or light reddish to straw color Sound strength Average luster Clean but free from croppy or hard gummy Tops and roots and red soft ends are permissible.

Bangla White-D (BE-D): Any color Average strength Occasional bark and specks permissible Slightly croppy and gummy tops permissible Red ends also permissible.

Bangla White-E(BW-E): Any color Any strength but free from perished fibers Unretted jute.

Tossa Jute:
Bangla Tossa Special (BTS):

• Uniform golden or reddish color
• Finest texture
• Very strong
• Very good luster
• Clean cut and well hackled
• Completely free from any defects.

Bangla Tossa-A(BT-A):

1 .Uniform sliver grey to golden color

• Fine texture
• Strong and good luster
• Clean cut and well hackled
• Completely free from any blemish.

2.Uniform light golden to reddish color

• Fine texture
• Strong and good luster
• Clean cut and well hackled
• Completely free from any blemish.

Bangla Tossa-B (BT-B):

1.Light to medium grey color

• Sound clean
• Good texture
• Average luster
• Clean cut and well hackled
• Free from any defects

2.Light grey or reddish excluding dark gray color

• Sound clean
• Good texture
• Average luster
• Clean cut and well hackled
• Free from any defects

Bangla Tossa-C (BT-C):

• Mixed colors
• Average strength
• Occasional bark and soft specks allowable
• free from runners
• Slightly croppy and gummy tops permissible
• Well cut and hackled but free from black root ends.

Bangla Tossa-D(BT-D):

• Mixed colors
• Average strength
• Occasional bark and specks allowable
• Free from runners
• croppy and gummy tops permissible
• Rough cut and hackled
• Free from black root ends

Bangla Tossa-E(BT-E):

• Any color
• Any strength but free from unretted jute
• Stick and perished fibers
• Rough cut and hackled bark and hard Centre permissible

Kutcha Grading:

Raw jute from which roots have not been cut.

Kutcha bales are graded as follows-

1. Tops
2. Middle
3. Bottoms
4. B-bottoms
5. C-bottoms
6. X-bottoms

Tops:

• Very strong fiber
• Excellent color and luster
• Free from all defects
• Cutting not more than (White 15% Tossa 10%)

Middle:

• Strong sound fibers
• Average color and luster
• Free from all specks runners and harsh crop end (White 25% Tossa 15%)

Bottoms:

• Sound fibers
• Medium strength
• Free from all hard centered jute (White 30% Tossa 20%)

B-bottoms:

• Sound fiber
• Medium strength
• Not suitable for higher grade(White 35% Tossa 25%)

C-bottoms:

• Medium strength
• Any color
• Free from runners and choppiness.

X-bottoms:

• Weak, harsh jute
• Free from tagled jute and stick

Habijabi:

• Tangled jute
• Free from any dust and cuttings 

 http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/

Jute is a bast fiber used for sacking, burlap, and twine as a backing material for tufted carpets. It is a long, soft, shiny fiber that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. It is one of the cheapest natural fibers, and is second only to cotton in amount produced and variety of uses. Jute fibers are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose, lignin, and pectin. Both the fiber and the plant from which it comes are commonly called jute. It belongs to the genus Corchorus in the basswood family, Tiliaceae. 

Properties of Jute Fiber:

1. Jute fibre is 100% bio-degradable and recyclable and thus environmentally friendly.
2. Jute is a natural fibre with golden and silky shine and hence called The Golden Fibre.
3. Jute is the cheapest vegetable fibre procured from the bast or skin of the plant's stem.
4. It is the second most important vegetable fibre after cotton, in terms of usage, global consumption, production, and availability.
5. It has high tensile strength, low extensibility, and ensures better breathability of fabrics. Therefore, jute is very suitable in agricultural commodity bulk packaging.
6. It helps to make best quality industrial yarn, fabric, net, and sacks. It is one of the most versatile natural fibres that has been used in raw materials for packaging, textiles, non-textile, construction, and agricultural sectors. Bulking of yarn results in a reduced breaking tenacity and an increased breaking extensibility when blended as a ternary blend.
7. Unlike the fiber known as hemp, jute is not a form of (Cannabis). Therefore it can be much more easily distinguished from forms of Cannabis that produce a narcotic
8. Jute is one of the most versatile natural fibres that has been used in raw materials for packaging, textiles, non-textile, and agricultural sectors.
9. Jute stem has very high volume of cellulose that can be procured within 4-6 months, and hence it also can save the forest and meet cellulose and wood requirement of the world.
10. The best varieties of Jute are Bangla Tosha - Corchorus olitorius (Golden shine) and Bangla White - Corchorus capsularis (Whitish Shine), and Mesta or Kenaf (Hibiscus cannabinus) is another species with fibre similar to Jute with medium quality.
11. Raw Jute and Jute goods are interpreted as Burlap, Industrial Hemp, and Kenaf in some parts of the world.

The best source of Jute in the world is the Bengal Delta Plain, which is occupied by Bangladesh and India.

Uses of Jute Fiber
Jute is the second most important vegetable fibre after cotton; not only for cultivation, but also for various uses.

• Jute is used chiefly to make cloth for wrapping bales of raw cotton, and to make sacks and coarse cloth.
• The fibres are also woven into curtains, chair coverings, carpets, area rugs, hessian cloth, and backing for linoleum. 
• While jute is being replaced by synthetic materials in many of these uses, some uses take advantage of jute's biodegradable nature, where synthetics would be unsuitable.
• Jute butts, the coarse ends of the plants, are used to make inexpensive cloth.
• Traditionally jute was used in traditional textile machineries as textile fibres having cellulose (vegetable fibre content) and lignin (wood fibre content). But, the major breakthrough came when the automobile, pulp and paper, and the furniture and bedding industries started to use jute and its allied fibres with their non-woven and composite technology to manufacture nonwovens, technical textiles, and composites.
• Jute can be used to create a number of fabrics such as Hessian cloth, sacking, scrim, carpet backing cloth (CBC), and canvas.
• Hessian, lighter than sacking, is used for bags, wrappers, wall-coverings, upholstery, and home furnishings.
• Sacking, a fabric made of heavy jute fibres, has its use in the name.
• Diversified jute products are becoming more and more valuable to the consumer today. Among these are espadrilles, floor coverings, home textiles, high performance technical textiles, Geotextiles, composites, and more.
• Jute is also used in the making of ghillie suits which are used as camouflage and resemble grasses or brush

Thus, jute is the most environment-friendly fibre starting from the seed to expired fibre, as the expired fibres can be recycled more than once.

Another diversified jute product is Geotextiles, which made this agricultural commodity more popular in the agricultural sector. It is a lightly woven fabric made from natural fibres that is used for soil erosion control, seed protection, weed control, and many other agricultural and landscaping uses. The Geotextiles can be used more than a year and the bio-degradable jute Geotextile left to rot on the ground keeps the ground cool and is able to make the land more fertile. 

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/ 

Raw Jute:

Raw jute in the form of bales are processed in jute mills to produce hessian, sacking, jute yarn, bags, and other useful products. Raw jute bales from jute fields or suppliers, carried by trucks are unloaded are stacked in the jute mills gowdown. 

Raw Jute fiber

Selection of Raw Jute:

In the selection process, raw jute bales are opened to find out any defect and to remove the defective portion from the mora by experienced workers. Raw jute bales are of two types i.e. 150 kg weight and 180 kg weight with or without top portion cutting. The bales are assorted according to end use like Hessiean weft, Sacking wrap, Sacking weft etc. After selection, jute bales are carried to softning section by workers called Gariwala and Bajawala.
 

Softning Process Jute:

In softning process jute morahs are made soft and pileable. Two methods are used for softning; use of softening machine and use of jute good spreader. Generally an emulsion plant with jute softner machine is used to lubricate and soften the bark and gummy raw jute. The emulsion plant consists of gear pump, motor, vat, jet sprayer, nozzles, emulsion tank and the jacket. In this softning process jute becomes soft and pileable and suitable for carding.
 
Carding:

Carding is a combining operation where jute reeds are splitted and extraneous matters are removed. Jute fibres are formed into ribbon called "sliver". There are three different carding sections:

(i)Breaker carding
(ii)Inner carding
(iii)Finisher carding

In the Breaker carding machine soften jute after piling is feed by hand in suitable weight. The machine by action with different rollers turns out raw jute in the form of jute sliver for finisher carding. In this process root cutting is necessary before feeding the material to the hand feed breaker carding machine.

Finisher carding machine make the sliver more uniform and regular in length and weight obtained from the Breaker carding machine.

Finisher carding machine is identical to the Breaker carding machine, having more pair of rollers, staves, pinning arrangement and speed.

Nearly 4 to 12 slivers obtained from Breaker carding machine is fed on this machine.

The material thus obtained is send to drawing section.
 
Drawing:

Drawing is a process for reducing sliver width and thickness by simultaneously mixing 4 to 6 sliver together. There are three types of Drawing Frame machine. In most mills 3 Drawing passages are used in Hessian and 2 Drawing passages are used in Sacking.

The slivers obtained from finisher carding machine is fed with four slivers on to the first drawing frame machine. The first drawing frame machines makes blending, equalizing the sliver and doubling two or more slivers, level and provide quality and color. This machines includes delivery roller, pressing roller, retaining roller, faller screw sliders, check spring, back spring, crimpling box etc..

In second drawing, the Second Drawing Frame machine obtain the sliver from the First drawing machine and use six slivers and deliveries per head. The Second Drawing machine makes more uniform sliver and reduce the jute into a suitable size for third drawing.

In the third drawing, the Third Drawing frame machine uses the sliver from second drawing. The Third Drawing machine is of high speed makes the sliver more crimpled and suitable for spinning. The comparison of the three drawing process:

Drawing Process	Efficiency Range(%)	Productivity Mt/mc/shift
1st Drawing	55 - 73	1.75 – 2.2
2nd Drawing	64 - 74	1.62 – 1.9
3rd Drawing	67 - 70	1.31 – 1.4

Spinning:

Spinning is the process for producing yarn from sliver obtained from Third drawing. The jute spinning frame machine is fitted with slip draft zone and capable of producing quality yarns at high efficiency with auto-dofting arrangements also. 

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/ 

Chemical Composition of Sisal Fiber:

Chemical Composition of Coir Fiber:

Chemical Composition of Wool Fiber:

Chemical Composition of Keratin:

Chemical Composition of Silk Fiber: