Textile & Fashion World

Spindle:

The spindle is the main part of a ring frame which helps in twisting, winding simultaneously. Sometimes, spindle referred as ‘heart of spinning’. It hold the bobbin, somewhat loosely but tight enough to prevent slippage.

Functions of Spindle:

a) Twisting and winding is performed by spindle.
b) It holds the bobbin.
c) The capacity of ring frame is mainly determine by the number of spindle.

Different Parts of Spindle:

The parts of spindle are given below:-

1. Spindle blade
2. Wharve
3. Bolster
4. Lock
5. Bearing
6. Bolster cage

The last three parts help the spindle to fix at the right place and work properly. 

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Object:
1. To know about the different parts of the ring frame.
2. To know about the function of the different parts of the ring frame machine.
3. To know about the driving mechanism of the spindle
4. To calculate the front roller delivery of the machine
5. To study the machine in order to improve our technical knowledge.

Gearing Diagram Ring Frame:

Fig: Gearing diagram of ring frame

Machine specification:

• RPM of the motor = 1440
• Diameter of the motor pulley = 5″
• Diameter of the tin cylinder pulley = 10.5″
• Diameter of the tin cylinder = 10″
• Diameter of the wharve = 1.125″
• No of teeth of lower grip wheel = 26T
• No of teeth of upper grip wheel = 46T
• No of teeth of fibre wheel = 42T
• No of teeth of twist carrier wheel = 86T
• No of teeth of twist wheel = 48T
• No of teeth of front roller driving wheel = 98T
• Diameter of front roller = 1″

Calculation:

Result:
Spindle Speed = 6095.24 rpm
Front roller delivery = 323.56 inch/min

Conclusion:
Our teacher and lab assistants are very much helpful to us. Their well teaching and instruction help us greatly to understand this practical. I think this practical will be very helpful in my future career. 

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Balloon Size Depends On
1. Yarn count: Centrifugal force is acted during the operation of unwinding. If the yarn is coarse the stronger centrifugal force is produced during winding & hence larger balloon size is formed.

2. Yarn winding/unwinding rate: Higher the speed of winding/unwinding higher the centrifugal force is produced; hence larger balloon is formed.

3. Size of the package: If the package is larger for the same lift then the height of the balloon will be larger.

4. Lift of the package: Higher the lift of the package then the larger balloon is formed.

5. Position of the guide: If the yarn guide is placed at larger distance from the yarn package, then larger balloon is formed.

Anti-Ballooner
The anti-ballooner is made as a guide of special shape which is placed in the zone of the ballooning yarn motion.

Here 7 is one kind of anti ballooner

The principle of anti-ballooner is that the ballooning yarn periodically meets objects on its path, which disturbs the yarn balance in the balloon so that the latter acquires a more complicated multi-wave shape. At the moment the balloon shape changed, when the number of ballooning yarn wave changes, a shape decrease in yarn tension is observed.

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Traveller: 

Traveler is the most tinny and simple mechanical element in ring frame which carries the most important function like simultaneous twisting, winding, thread guide etc. We have discussed about features of Ring traveller in another article.

Ring traveller

Ring spinning

Comparison of Rotor Spun Yarn with the Ring Spun Yarn :

•  Breaking strength lower than ring spun Yarn
•  CV% of strength better than ring spun yarn
•  Elongation at break higher than ring spun yarn
•  Mass irregularity ( over short lengths) better than ring spun yarn
•  Imperfection index lower than ring spun yarn
•  Volume greater than ring spun yarn
•  Abrasion resistance higher than ring spun yarn
•  Stiffness higher than ring spun yarn
•  Handle harder
•  Power consumption less than ring spun yarn
•  Possible yarn counts rotor Ne 3 – 60 and Ring Ne 6 – 200
•  Energy consumption with productivity lower as compared to ring m/c.

 Aesthetic properties

•  Surface rougher than ring yarn
•  Hariness lower than ring yarn
•  Lusture on the dull side

More capital costs & more maintanace cost as compared to ring machine. In modern rotor spinning line; blow room and carding machine are use at a time. This technique is called “Chute to feed card” or “Chute to feed drawing”. Rotor spinning number is less than combed or carded spinning. Low graded fiber spin in rotor spinning. 

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Object:
1. To produce required count of yarn from the supplied roving by the drafting.
2. To insert sufficient amount of twist to the yarn.
3. To wind the yarn onto the bobbin.
4. To build the yarn package properly.

Main Parts Ring Frame:
1. Creel
2. Guide roller
3. Trumpet
4. Drafting rollers
5. Yarn guide
6. Lappet
7. Balloon controlling ring
8. Traveler
9. Ring
10. Spindle

Specification:
I. Name of manufacturer: Platts.
II. No of spindle: 64
III. Ring dia: 6.2 cm
IV. Lift of the bobbin: 9”

Passage diagram:

Fig: Passage Diagram of Ring frame

Description:
The feed material come from speed frame i.e. roving bobbin is placed on the creel. The creel which is attached to the machine is umbrella type. Then feed material is passed under the guide rollers and through the trumpet in to the drafting zone. Here some draft is inserted in to the roving. The draft system is 3 over 3 drafting system with apron. The delivery material that is delivered from the front roller is reached to the traveler over pneumatic waste collector, lappet and through balloon controlling ring. Lappet is used to control the material path and balloon controlling ring is used to control the balloon formation and spinning tension. Here roving is twisted by the movement of the traveler around the ring. The yarn is then wound on the ring cop.

Conclusion:
Our teacher and lab assistants are very much helpful to us. Their well teaching and instruction help us greatly to understand this practical. I think this practical will be very helpful in my future career. 

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Experiment Name: Study on ring doubling frame
1.Spindle speed, front roller delivery.
2.Twist, twist Constant.

Objects:
1) To combine two or more single threads into one.
2) To insert sufficient amount of twist for holding the yarns.
3) To increase strength, smoothness and luster.
4) To reduce hairiness.
5) To make sewing thread.
6) To wind a suitable bobbin.

Main parts:  

Specification:

• Motor rpm = 1430
• Motor pulley diameter = 6.25²
• Machine pulley diameter = 10.25²
• Tin cylinder diameter = 10²
• Wharve diameter = 1.37²
• Cylinder carrier wheel = 24T
• TCP carrier wheel = 62T
• TCP = 63T
• Front roller diameter = 2’’

Calculation:

Gearing diagram of doubling frame: 

 

Figure: gearing diagram of doubling frame.

Result:
1) Spindle speed = 6461.59 rpm
2) Twist constant = 1235.25
3) Front roller delivery = 319.143 inch/min.
4) Existing TPI = 20
5) Production = 14.37 lb/shift/frame.
6) Required TPI = 16.266
7) Required TCP =76.25T

Conclusion: 

By this experiment we come to know about various parts and working principle of ring doubling frame. This machine is important for producing double yarn on sewing thread. 

Wastage

The action or process of losing or destroying something by using it carelessly or extravagantly. Waste includes all items that people no longer have any use for, which they either intend to get rid of or have already discarded.

In practical,

Input – Output = Wastage

List of Wastage in Combing:

1. Noil:                           As per desired & quality of the end product to be produced.
2. Minilap Wastage:         0.25%
3. Sliver Wastage :           0.25%
4. Roller Wastage :          0.25%
5. Fly Dust:                     0.10%
6. Sweeping:                   0.20%

Wastages in Simplex/Speed Frame:

1. Sliver
2. Roller Waste/Bonda
3. Pneumaphil Waste
4. Roving Waste
5. Sweeping Waste
6. Clearer waste
7. Invisible Waste

Note: Above 0.50% of total amount of wastage is not acceptable

Wastages in Ring Frame:

1. Pnemaphil:                      0.20-0.30%
2. Bonda:                           0.20-0.30%
3. Roving waste:                 0.10-0.20%
4. Thread waste:                 0.10-below
5. Fly dust:                         0.20%
6. Sweeping waste:            0.20%

Note: Total wastage is not more than 1%

Concept of Wastage:

• Wastage Control(Previous Concept) = Wastage Production+Wastage Reduction
• Wastage Management (Present concept) = Wastage Production+Wastage Utilization

Wastage Reduction Procedure/ Factors for Wastage Reductions:

1. Raw materials selection
2. Spindle speed
3. Setting(Rollers, R/T, Traveller cleaner etc)
4. Twist of yarn
5. Machinery condition
6. RH% and Temperature
7. Proper material handling
8. Adequate supervision 

 

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This special machine is used to perform functional finishing on wool fabrics after raising finishing. The machine is made up of two different units. 

1.Starching Unit

2.Glazing Unit

The Starching Unit Includes:
1) a vat containing water and silicones;
2) a variable-speed extracting cylinder to reduce the quantity of liquid to be passed onto the fabric;
3) a brush coated with horsehair adhering to the extracting cylinder and passing the liquid onto the fibre ends of the fabric, simultaneously combing and lining up the fibres.

The Glazing Unit Includes:  

•  A crenellated polishing cylinder (made of steel and coated with hard chrome) heated by means of electric resistances at temperatures up to 220°C and four spiral grooves on which hard-steel combs are assembled. These combs have very fine teeth to enhance the efficiency of fibre ironing during the process;

• A felt sleeve, rotating at the same speed of the fabric, presses the fabric onto the polishing cylinder. The contact arc on the polishing cylinder can vary and the cylinder can reach a temperature of 130°C.

Wool glazing machine

The fabric with the fibre ends already combed and wet come under the polishing cylinder, which dries and irons the pile, and confers a lustrous appearance by giving a soft and smooth hand, also thanks to the silicones added to the starching vat (thanks to this process the fabric acquires a hand similar to the precious wool one).

By adjusting the temperature and the speed of the polishing cylinder, the contact arc of the fabric on the cylinder and the contrasting pressure of the felting material, it is possible to obtain different types of finishing (from the laid down to the perfectly lined up one). 

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Experiment Name: Study on ring doubling frame
1.Spindle speed, front roller delivery.
2.Twist, twist Constant.

Objects:
1) To combine two or more single threads into one.
2) To insert sufficient amount of twist for holding the yarns.
3) To increase strength, smoothness and luster.
4) To reduce hairiness.
5) To make sewing thread.
6) To wind a suitable bobbin.

Main parts:  

Specification:

• Motor rpm = 1430
• Motor pulley diameter = 6.25²
• Machine pulley diameter = 10.25²
• Tin cylinder diameter = 10²
• Wharve diameter = 1.37²
• Cylinder carrier wheel = 24T
• TCP carrier wheel = 62T
• TCP = 63T
• Front roller diameter = 2’’

Calculation:

Gearing diagram of doubling frame: 

 

Figure: gearing diagram of doubling frame.

Result:
1) Spindle speed = 6461.59 rpm
2) Twist constant = 1235.25
3) Front roller delivery = 319.143 inch/min.
4) Existing TPI = 20
5) Production = 14.37 lb/shift/frame.
6) Required TPI = 16.266
7) Required TCP =76.25T

Conclusion: 

By this experiment we come to know about various parts and working principle of ring doubling frame. This machine is important for producing double yarn on sewing thread. 

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Introduction:
When warp and weft yarns interlace in fabric they follow a wavy or corrugated path. Crimp percentage is a measure of this waviness in yarns. Warp and weft crimp percentages are two of the eleven structural elements in fabric construction discussed by Peirce. The relationships between the geometry of a cloth structure and its physical behavior in use are complex. Although much pioneer work has been done there are many unresolved problems still to be investigated.

Objective:
To measure the crimp percentage in warp and weft of a given fabric.

Theory:
Percentage crimp is defined as the mean difference between the straightened thread length and the distance between the ends of the thread while in the cloth, expressed as a percentage. From the definition of crimp two values must be known, the cloth length from which the yarns is removed and the straightened length of the thread. In order to straighten the thread, tension must be applied, just sufficient to remove all the kinks without stretching the yarn. In practice it is seldom possible to remove all the crimp before the yarn itself begins to stretch. The standardized tensions recommended in the B.S. Handbook are given below:
 

From those two values we can calculate the crimp percentage with the following formula: 

  C=(l-p)/p*100%

where, c = crimp, l = uncrimped length and p = crimped length.

Five groups of threads selected for test are two warp way and three weft way groups. The mean crimp percentage is calculated warp way and weft way. Rectangular strips are carefully marked on the cloth and each strip cut into the form of a flap. From each strip ten threads will be removed. Removal of threads is as follows: the central part of the first thread is separated from the flap fringe by means of a dissecting needle, but the two extreme ends are left secured. One end is then removed and place in the grip of the tester, and the other end is removed and placed in the second grip. In this way the thread is transferred from the cloth to the crimp tester without loss of twist and with a minimum handling. Several crimp testers are available, Shirley crimp tester is one of them.

Atmosphere:
Temperature – 25oC and relative humidity – 67%
Standard atmosphere: temperature – 20oC and relative humidity - 65%.

Apparatus:
1. Crimp tester
2. Fabric sample
3. Scissor
4. Scale

Sample:
Cotton woven fabric. Length = 10².

Procedure:
1. At first we have to select the warp or weft way of the fabric. Then we should select the test length of the yarn. Here it is 10².
2. According to test length we will cut the flap of fabric.
3. Now a single yarn is to remove from the flap of fabric carefully as discussed in theory.
4. One end of the yarn is gripped in the fixed gripper of the m/c and the other end is gripped in the other setting the test length.
5. Now the tension for the sample is found out from its count and it is set in the m/c.
6. After that we will apply tension along the yarn length with hand by taking away the other end of yarn far from the first end.
7. As soon as the white marl on the tension bar is on the same line of its both sides white mark, we will stop far away the other end.
8. The length of the yarn after applying tension is taken from the scale.
9. Now from this two lengths crimp percentage is calculated from the given formula.
10. In this way at least 10 crimp percentage for warp and 10 for weft is taken and average crimp percentage is calculated from them. 

S/n	Warp Yarn				Weft yarn
	Crimped length p	Uncrimped length l	Crimp percentage c	Mean	Crimped length p	Uncrimped length l	Crimp percentage c	Mean
1	10²	10.7²	7%	6.7%	10²	11.1²	11%	10.5%
2		10.9²	9%			11²	10%
3		10.8²	8%			11.2²	12%
4		10.4²	4%			11.1²	11%
5		10.6²	6%			10.9²	9%

Calculation:

Result:
Average warp crimp percentage 6.7%
and average weft crimp percentage 10.5%.

Remark:
We found that crimp percentage for warp is less than weft. It is because the warp yarns are kept in tension during weaving. Besides they are stronger and better yarn than weft. So they do not extend more. On the other hand weft yarns are kept in low tension and low in quality. So they can extend more. As a result their crimp percentage is more. We should notice that variation in crimp can give rise to faults in fabrics, e.g. reduction in strength, bright picks and diamond barring in rayons, strips in yarn dyed cloths and so on. So we should control it which is also necessary for design fabric to give required extensibility. Since crimp is related to length, it affects the amount of cloth as well as cost of production. 

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Introduction:
Twist is the spiral turns given to a yarn to increase the strength of the yarn. But in speed frame machine vary small amount of twist is given to the roving to make it able to wound onto a bobbin. For a fibrous material twist is measured by the parameter twist per inch (TPI), twist per centimeter or twist per meter (TPM). For the cotton sample twist is measured by TPI.

In speed frame machines twist per unit is varied with the variation of raw material and its different parameters. This variation of twist is inserted by changing a wheel that is connected with the main driving shaft named twist change pinion (TCP). And the multiply of TCP and TPI, present in a machine is called twist constant. This value is applicable for any required twist with corresponding TCP. So we can find out the required TCP to get a given TPI. The generalize formulae is as below: 

Specification:

• Front roller carrier wheel :80T(A)
• Twist constant change pinion carrier:30T(B)
• Twist constant change pinion:30T(C)
• Twist change pinion:28T(D)
• Sprocket wheel:34T(E)
• Sprocket pinion:36T(F)
• Spindle carrier wheel:40T(G)
• Spindle wheel:22T(H)

GEARING DIAGRAM:

Fig: Gearing diagram of speed frame

Calculation:
 

Result:
Twist per inch TPI → 1.56
Required TCP → 33

Conclusion:
Speed frame is the first machine which enables the winding of the fibrous material on to a package. From this machine the fibre gets a circular shape which is very advantageous to be used in ring spinning. So the importance of this machine is very much. In this experiment we indicate different gearing diagram of the twist inserting portion; specify it and calculate twist and twist constant. We found a satisfactory result. So the experiment is a successful one.

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