22 March 2013

Flat Lock Sewing Machine

Experiment name: Study on flat lock sewing machine and production of sample.


Introduction: 
There are many types of sewing machines. Some are used for special purposes such as bar tack machine, button hole machine etc. This type of machine works in a cycle and so they are called simple automatic machine. Here we study on such a type of machine that is flat lock sewing machine.

Objectives:
1.To know about the machine parts.
2.To sketch the thread path.

Specification:

  • Brand : JUKI
  • Model : MFD 47605U
  • Type : Flat or Cylinder bed
  • Group : Chain stitch
  • Needle no : 3
  • Needle name: UY-128
  • Needle size: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21
  • SPM : 2500-6000
  • TPI : 25-35
Adjustment : Thread, tension, needle, pressure feed, stitch density, looper etc.

Function : Sewing all types of knitted cloth.

Different parts:

  1. Thread stand
  2. Thread guides
  3. Disc type tensioner
  4. Pressure feed lever
  5. Thread take-up lever
  6. Needle
  7. Looper
Description: 
This machine may be of flat bed or cylinder bed type. In our lab 21, 22 nos. machines are flat bed and 32 no. machine is cylinder bed type. Flat bed is used for sewing body cloth and cylinder bed is used for sleeve cloth. In this machine 4 needles may also be used and sewing may be done using from 4 to 9 threads. Sewing with flat lock machine the most quantity thread is needed. For example for sewing 1 inch cloth up to 32 inches thread is needed. The SPM of this type of machine is usually 6000 and 8-16 stitches may be done per inch. It is a very expensive machine and is used for mainly sewing knitted goods but also used for making woven cloth.

Conclusion: 
This type of machine can not be used for normal purpose. But for making a complete garment their importance can not be denied. Special care and sufficient knowledge is necessary for proper working. Otherwise faulty sewing may be done. I would like to give special thanks to our teacher. I am also grateful to our instructors. I think this will be very helpful in my future life.
 
21 March 2013

Loom Brake System | Types of Loom Brake | Band Brake of Loom

Loom Brake System:
Brake: A brake is a device by means of which artificial frictional resistance is applied to moving body in order to stop the motion of a loom.
Loom Brake
Types of Brake:
Through there are many types of brakes, the following are commonly used in looms:

i) Shoe brake
ii) Band brake

Band Brake:
The brake stops the loom immediately whenever required. The weaver uses it to stop the loom to repair broken ends and picks.

A band brake consists of a flexible band of leather, or steel lined with friction material, which embraces a part of the circumference of the dram shown in figure. One end is fixed at the point and other is fixed with a spring loaded collar. When force is applied to the lever hence the brake is applied. The friction between the band on the drum and the drum provides the braking force as lateral movement of leaver creates a pressure on the brake band. 

Study on beating-up mechanism .

Experiment name: Study on beating-up mechanism .

Objects:

1.To know about the construction of the mechanism.

2.To know about the drive of the beating-up mechanism.

Introduction:

The beating-up is the third primary motion of weaving. It consists in driving the last pick of weft to the fell of the cloth. This is accomplished with the help of a reed fixed in the sley. The sley is given a sudden and quick movement towards the fell of the cloth by the cranks in the crankshaft. The sleywood runs from one shuttle box to another, and when at its backward movement, the shuttle travels over its race.


Main parts:

1.Crankshaft 

2.Crank 
3.Crank arm 
4.Reed cap 
 
5.Reed
6.Sley race
7.Sley
8.Sleysword

Description:
The crankshaft gets drive from motor via motor pulley and m/c pulley. The crankshaft has two cranks. These cranks transform the rotary motion into swinging motion. The reed cap is connected by crank arm to crank of the crankshaft. Again the reed is connected between reed cap and sley. There is sleysword under the sley that is bolted to the rocking shaft. There is also shuttle box on the sley. Now the crank gives the swinging motion to the sley by crank arm. When the sley is moving towards the healdshaft at certain position the shuttle passes through warp shed. Again when the sley is coming towards the front rest at last position the reed pushes the last pick to the previous pick of cloth. This is the beating-up motion and the cloth increases in lengthwise in this way.


Conclusion:

To make a woven fabric interlacement of warp and weft yarns is the main condition. That’s why beating-up mechanism is a very essential motion for weaving. Proper setting and adjustment should be taken for this motion. This practical helps me to know about beating-up motion. I think this will help me in my future career. 
 

Twist Mechanism

Twist:
Twist is the number of turns about its axis per unit of length of a yarn or other textile strand. Twist is expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpcm). It is a very essential process in the production of staple yarn, twine, cord and ropes. Twist is inserted to the staple yarn to hold the constituent fibres together, thus giving enough strength to the yarn, and also producing a continuous length of yarn. The mechanism of twist insertion to the strand during ring spinning has been studied. The twisting of the strand occurs not only due to the rotation of twisting elements, but also due to the winding of yarn on the package. When the yarn is wound on a stationary cop by gripping and winding the yarn by hand, for every coil of yarn wind one turn of twist to the yarn is inserted. Now we will discuss about way of twist insertion to the yarn. 
Twist direction
Twist Insertion to the Yarn When the Spindle is Stationary:  
We assume that the spindle is stationary and the traveller rotates in the ring frame. Each revolution of the traveller winds one coil of yarn onto the cop. This is similar to gripping and winding the yarn on a cop by hand. The yarn will rotate 3600 per coil wind while winding the yarn onto a stationary cop by hand; hence the winding causes yarn twisting.
  • Length of yarn wound per revolution of traveller = Ï€d
  • Turns/cm due to winding = 1/Ï€d
Where d – Winding on diameter of cop or bobbin in cm.

If the yarn is unwound in parallel from the cop, the yarn will retain all the twists present in the yarn, whereas if the yarn is over-end unwound, unwinding a coil removes one turn of twist. The unwinding causes twisting. So, the twists inserted into the yarn during winding are removed during over-end unwinding. The over-end withdrawal may be from any side of the cop. If the traveller rotates in a clockwise direction to wind the yarn onto the cop, each coil of wind inserts one turn of ‘Z’ twist to the yarn. When the same is over-end unwound, every unwinding coil inserts one turn of twist in an ‘S’ direction, and so the resultant yarn will not have any twist.

Twist Insertion into the Yarn when the Traveller is Stationary:  
We assume that the traveller is fixed on a stationary ring and that the spindle is rotating at a constant speed. Every revolution of spindle winds one coil of yarn onto the cop. Here winding does not cause twisting, and hence the yarn in the cop will not have any twist. But if the yarn is over-end unwound, every unwinding of a coil of yarn inserts one turn of twist into the yarn.

  • Turns/cm due to over-end unwinding = 1/Ï€d
The direction of twist insertion during over end unwinding depends on direction of yarn winding. If the spindle rotates in an anticlockwise direction to wind the yarn onto the cop, during over-end unwinding a ‘Z’ twist will be inserted into the yarn. But if the same yarn is unwound in parallel, the yarn will not receive any twist.

Twist Insertion onto the Yarn when both Spindle and Traveller rotate in Opposite Direction:
It may be wondered why it should be necessary to rotate the traveller and spindle in the opposite direction, and also how to rotate the traveller in the opposite direction. This is only to enable the reader to clearly understand the mechanism of twisting. When both the spindle and traveller rotate in the opposite direction, each revolution of the spindle and traveller winds one coil each. The length of yarn wound per min and twist/cm can be calculated.

  • Length of yarn wound per min = Ï€ d (NS+NT)
  • Twist/cm due to winding = - NT/ Ï€ d (NS+NT) where
  • NS – spindle speed in rpm,
  • NT – traveller speed in rpm.
If the spindle and traveller rotate in clockwise and anticlockwise directions respectively, the direction of twist insertion due to winding would be ‘S’. But during over-end unwinding, the direction of twist insertion would be ‘Z’. + and - signs are used to represent the Z and S twist directions respectively.
  • Twist/cm due to over-end unwinding = (NT/ Ï€ d (NS+NT)) + (NS/ Ï€ d (NS+NT))
  • Twist/cm in the yarn after over-end withdrawal = (NS/ Ï€ d (NS+NT)
Twist Insertion onto the Yarn when the Spindle leads the Traveller:
In ring spinning, both the spindle and traveller rotate in the same direction. However, the spindle rotates at a higher speed than the traveller. If both rotate at the same speed, only the twisting of yarn takes place without winding. Due to the difference in their rotational speeds, the winding of the yarn takes place on the cop.

  • Length of yarn wound on the cop per min = Ï€d (NS –NT)
Due to rotation, both spindle and traveller insert twists onto the yarn. If both the spindle and traveller rotate in a clockwise direction, a ‘Z’ twist is inserted to the yarn.
  • Turns/cm in the yarn = NT/Ï€d (NS –NT)
  • The winding rate should be equal to the delivery rate.
  • Length of yarn delivered (cm/min) = Ï€d (NS –NT)
Here winding takes place in similar conditions to when the traveller is stationary and the spindle is rotating; hence winding does not insert any twist onto the yarn. On the other hand, during over-end unwinding one turn of twist is inserted for every unwound [[*]] of coil.
  • Turns/cm for unwinding = 1/Ï€d
  • Total twist present in the yarn after over-end unwound = NT/Ï€d(NS –NT) + 1/Ï€d = NS/Ï€d(NS-NT)
Since yarn from the ring cop is normally over-end withdrawn during the winding process, the spindle speed is taken for calculating the turns/cm in the yarn instead of using traveller speed. However, turns/cm in the roving is calculated by taking the flyer speed into account. This is due to the parallel withdrawal of roving during spinning.

Twist Insertion onto the Strand when Flyer leads Bobbin:
Due to the difference in the speeds of the flyer and the bobbin, the winding of roving takes place on the bobbin.

  • Twist/cm due to twisting = NB / Ï€d(NF-NB)
  • Twist/cm due to winding = (NF-NB)/ Ï€d(NF-NB)
  • Twist/cm in the roving = NF / Ï€d(NF-NB) where
  • NF - flyer speed in rpm,
  • NB - bobbin speed in rpm.
If the roving is unwound in parallel, the roving will have the same amount of twist as in the bobbin, but if it is over-end withdrawn, it will lose a certain amount of twist during unwinding.
  • Turns/cm due to over-end withdrawal = - (NF-NB)/ Ï€d(NF-NB)
  • Turns/cm in the roving after over-end withdrawal = NB/Ï€d (NF-NB) 
  http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/05/mechanism-of-twist-insertion-to.html
11 March 2013

J. C. Penney



 J. C. Penney Company, Inc., commonly known as JCPenney (stylized as jcp and jcpenney) and formerly known as Penneys, is a chain of American mid-range department stores based in Plano, Texas. The company operates 1,107 department stores in all 50 U.S. states and Puerto Rico, and previously operated a catalog business and several discount outlets.[3] In addition to selling conventional merchandise, JCPenney stores often house several leased departments such as Sephora, Seattle's Best Coffee, optical centers, portrait studios, and jewelry repair.
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<span class="fullpost">

J. C. Penney Company, Inc., commonly known as JCPenney (stylized as jcp and jcpenney) and formerly known as Penneys, is a chain of American mid-range department stores based in Plano, Texas. The company operates 1,107 department stores in all 50 U.S. states and Puerto Rico, and previously operated a catalog business and several discount outlets.[3] In addition to selling conventional merchandise, JCPenney stores often house several leased departments such as Sephora, Seattle's Best Coffee, optical centers, portrait studios, and jewelry repair.

Most JCPenney stores are located in suburban shopping malls. Before 1966, most of its stores were located in downtown areas. As shopping malls became more popular in the latter half of the 20th century, JCPenney followed the trend by relocating and developing stores to anchor the malls. In more recent years, the chain has continued to follow consumer traffic, echoing the retailing trend of opening some standalone stores, including some next door to competitors. Certain stores are located in power centers. The company has been an Internet retailer since 1998. It has streamlined its catalog and distribution while undergoing renovation improvements at store level.
Contents

    1 History
        1.1 Incorporation
        1.2 1960s
        1.3 1970s
        1.4 1980s
        1.5 1990s
        1.6 2000s
        1.7 2010s
    2 Internet store
    3 Logo
    4 See also
    5 References
    6 External links

History
Incorporation
J.C. Penney mother store in Kemmerer, Wyoming.

James Cash Penney began his career in retail management when he opened The Golden Rule store, a partnership with Guy Johnson and Thomas Callahan, on April 14, 1902 in Kemmerer, Wyoming. He participated in the creation of two more stores, and purchased full interest in all three locations when Callahan and Johnson dissolved their partnership in 1907. In 1909, Penney moved his company headquarters to Salt Lake City, Utah to be closer to banks and railroads. By 1912, Penney had 34 stores in the Rocky Mountain States. In 1913, all stores were consolidated under the J.C. Penney banner. The so-called "mother store", in Kemmerer, opened as the chain's second location in 1904. It still operates, as of 2011, albeit with hours shorter than many of its other store locations.

In 1913, the company was incorporated under the new name, J. C. Penney Company, with William Henry McManus as a co-founder. In 1914, the headquarters was moved to New York City to simplify the buying, financing, and transportation of goods. Around this time, Bert J. Niver joined the company as a junior partner. By 1917, the company operated 175 stores in 22 states in the United States.[4] J. C. Penney acquired The Crescent Corset Company in 1920, the company's first wholly owned subsidiary. In 1922, the company's oldest active private brand, Big Mac work clothes, was launched. The company opened its 500th store in 1924 in Hamilton, Missouri, James Cash Penney's hometown. By the opening of the 1,000th store in 1928, gross business had reached $190,000,000.

In 1940, Sam Walton began working at a J. C. Penney in Des Moines, Iowa. Walton later went on to found future retailer Wal-Mart in 1962.[5] By 1941, J.C. Penney operated 1,600 stores in all 48 states. In 1956, J. C. Penney started national advertising with a series of advertisements in Life magazine. J. C. Penney credit cards were issued and accepted at its stores for the first time in 1959.
1960s

In 1962, J. C. Penney entered discount merchandising with the acquisition of General Merchandise Company which gave them The Treasury stores. These discount operations proved unsuccessful and were shuttered in 1981. In 1963, J. C. Penney issued its first catalog. The company operated in-store catalog desks in eight states. The catalogs were distributed by the Milwaukee Catalog distribution center.

The company dedicated its first full-line, shopping center department store in 1961. This store was located at Black Horse Pike Center, in Audubon, New Jersey. The second full line shopping center store was dedicated, at King of Prussia Plaza, in King of Prussia, Pennsylvania in late 1962. Those stores broadened the lines of merchandise and services that a typical J. C. Penney carried to include appliances, sporting goods, garden merchandise, restaurants, beauty salons, portrait studios, auto parts and auto centers.
The Penney Building in Anchorage in 1964, following the earthquake.

J. C. Penney expanded to include Alaska and Hawaii in the 1960s. The company opened stores in Anchorage and Fairbanks, Alaska in 1962. The Penney Building in Anchorage partially collapsed and was damaged beyond repair in the 1964 Alaska earthquake.[6][7] The company rebuilt the store as a shorter building on a larger footprint, and followed up by building Anchorage's first public parking garage, which opened in 1968.[8] In 1966, J. C. Penney "finished" its national expansion with the opening of its Honolulu, Hawaii store, at Ala Moana Center (all Hawaii stores were closed in 2003). The Penney store at Plaza Las Américas mall in San Juan, Puerto Rico, which opened in 1968, featured three levels and 261,500 square feet (24,290 m2). It was the world's largest J. C. Penney, until a 300,000-square-foot (28,000 m2) store was dedicated at Greater Chicago's Woodfield Mall in 1971. The Woodfield Mall store served as the largest in the chain until a replacement store opened at Plaza Las Américas in 1998, which is 350,000 square feet (33,000 m2) in size.
A J.C. Penney located at the Palm Beach Mall, opened in 1967 located in West Palm Beach, Florida

In 1969, the company acquired Thrift Drug, a chain of drugstores headquartered in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. It also acquired Supermarkets Interstate, an Omaha-based food retailer which operated leased departments in J. C. Penney stores, The Treasury stores, and Thrift Drug stores.
1970s

On February 12, 1971, James Cash Penney died at the age of 95. Out of respect for his death, the company's stores were closed for half a day.[citation needed] That year, the company's revenues reached $5 billion for the first time and catalog business made a profit for the first time.[9]

The first "JCPenney" logo was adopted in the summer of 1970, taking nearly a decade to roll out chainwide.[citation needed]

JCPenney reached its peak number of stores in 1973, with 2,053 stores, 300 of which were full-line establishments.[9] However, the company was hard hit by the 1974 recession with its stock price declining by two-thirds.[9] In 1977, J. C. Penney sold its stores in Italy to La Rinascente and also removed its Supermarkets Interstate leased departments. In 1980, The company closed the Treasury discount stores because they were unprofitable and decided to focus resources on its core retail stores.[9]

In 1978, the J. C. Penney Historic District in Kemmerer, Wyoming, was designated a U.S. National Historic Landmark. In 1979, the Visa card began to be accepted in JCPenney stores. MasterCard was accepted the following year.[9]
1980s
JCPenney in Aventura Mall in Aventura, Florida.
JC Penney was a major online retailer on Viewtron during the 1980s

In 1983, JCPenney phased out its hardware and auto departments, and also sold its auto repair shops to Firestone. Also in 1983, JCPenney began selling online through the Viewtron videotex service. In 1984, JCPenney acquired the First National Bank of Harrington, Delaware and renamed it JCPenney National Bank. With the bank the company became able to issue its own MasterCard and Visa cards. The company also began accepting American Express cards. Also that year, Thrift Drug began co-locating stores with Weis Markets, and acquired many former Pantry Pride properties. In April 1987, the company announced that it was moving its headquarters to Dallas, Texas.[10] After several years of development, the JCPenney Television Shopping Channel appeared on cable systems beginning in 1989.

By the mid-1980s, all JCPenney stores had ceased to sell firearms. Before this point, JCPenney carried several rifles and shotguns branded with the JCPenney brand but manufactured by various established firearms makers.
1990s
JCPenney big-box store in Houston, Texas.

In 1990, the company broke ground with the new corporate headquarters in Plano, Texas. It was completed in 1992. When Sears closed its catalog business in 1993, J. C. Penney became the largest catalog retailer in the United States. In 1996, the company expanded its drug store business with the acquisition of Fay's Drug and Kerr Drug. These acquisitions momentum climaxed with acquisition of the Eckerd chain in November. Fay's, Kerr, and Eckerd merged into J. C. Penney's drug store subsidiary Thrift Drug. Fay's, most Kerr, and Thrift drug stores were re-branded Eckerd in 1997. (Kerr Drug stores in The Carolinas remain branded as such.)[11]

In 1998, JCPenney launched its Internet store, which has since grown into one of the largest apparel and home furnishings retail sites on the Internet. In early 2001, JCPenney closed 44 under-performing stores. On April 14, 2002, JCPenney celebrated 100 years as a retailer. In 2003, the company opened three off-the-mall stores in strip centers. These stores were located in Texas, Minnesota, and Indiana. The new one-level, 94,000 sq ft (8,700 m2) format stores focus on convenience with wider aisles and centralized checkouts.[12]
2000s
JCPenney in the Holiday Village Mall in Great Falls, Montana.

In 2004, the company added 14 more stores and exited the drug store division after 35 years, with the sale of its Eckerd division. In 2005, JCPenney's e-commerce storefront exceeded the one-billion dollar revenue mark for the first time.

In 2007, JCPenney launched the Ambrielle lingerie label, which became their largest private brand launched in the company's history.[13] J. C. Penney also re-introduced cosmetics with the opening of Sephora "stores-within-a-store" inside some J. C. Penney locations. Beginning in 2007 the store slogan changed from "It's All Inside" to "Every Day Matters"; the new slogan and associated ad campaign was launched in television commercials during the 79th Academy Awards in late February 2007.

After JCPenney sold off Eckerd in 2004, the locations that continued to operate as Eckerd (some locations in the Southern U.S. were sold to CVS Corporation) still had JCPenney Catalog Centers inside the stores (which was a carryover from locations that were once Thrift Drug) and also continued to accept JCPenney credit cards. After Rite Aid finalized its acquisition of Eckerd in 2007, the Catalog Centers inside the soon-to-be-converted francois stores permanently closed, although as a result of the acquisition, Rite Aid now accepts JCPenney credit cards, even at Rite Aid locations that existed before the takeover of Eckerd.

In November 2007, the company launched a new public website, JCPenneyBrands.com, which covers the company's private and exclusive brands, and their branding strategy, with a preview of an upcoming product line. In February 2008, the company launched the "American Living" brand, as developed by Ralph Lauren, across several product lines, including Men's, Women's, and Children's Apparel and Shoes, Intimate Apparel, and Home. The launch, which was accompanied by an ad campaign during the 2008 Academy Awards, was the company's largest private brand launch.[14] American Living for infant apparel was launched in July 2008. In the summer of 2008, J. C. Penney also added a new brand to its home collection, "Linden Street." The Linden Street brand features a contemporary lifestyle collection of furniture, domestics, and home decor. Linden Street is sold exclusively in JCPenney stores and through their website. Other new exclusive brands for junior's and young men's were launched in the summer of 2008, including Le Tigre (relaunch), Decree, and Fabulosity, a junior line of clothing by Kimora Lee Simmons.

In June 2008, an ad called "Speed Dressing" emerged ending with the JCPenney logo and slogan "Every Day Matters". The ad won a prize at the Cannes Lions International Advertising Festival. The ad was criticized for seeming to promote teen sex. JCPenney denied that the ad was theirs and their advertising agency Saatchi & Saatchi reported that it had been created by a third party vendor. It was entered in the competition by Epoch Films, who declined to comment.[15][16] Marketing expert John Tantillo advised that the company distance itself from the commercial and also shed the publicity it engendered.[17]

In July 2009, new additions were made to the JCPenney young men's department, including an expansion of their private brand Decree (previously exclusively a juniors clothing line) and the introduction of more skate/surf-oriented clothing, including Rusty, RS by Ryan Sheckler, and 3rd Rail. In August 2009, Albert Gonzalez's defense lawyer announced that JCPenney was a victim of the computer hacker, although JCPenney stated that no customers' credit card information had been stolen.[18] In September 2010, JCPenney had joined Facebook to help promote their "Care, Share, Win" campaign. Since 1999, JCPenney has donated $100 million to after school care. Fans of JCPenney on Facebook can help decide which school will receive the next million dollars.

In 2009, JCPenney reached an agreement with Seattle's Best Coffee to feature full-service cafes within leased departments inside JCPenney stores across the country. Currently, Seattle's Best Coffee are still expanding cafe locations within JCPenney locations across the country.
2010s
A two-story J. C. Penney at Stonebriar Centre in Frisco, Texas opened in 2000.

On January 24, 2011, JCPenney announced it would exit the catalog business and close all 19 of its catalog outlet stores.[19] An additional seven stores, two call center facilities, and one customer decorating facility would also be closed.[19]

On February 12, 2011, The New York Times exposed the use of link schemes, i.e., spamdexing, successfully to promote the JCPenney web site in Google search results by having the company's website come up as the top search results, especially during the holiday season. Doug Pierce, an expert in online search, described the optimization as "the most ambitious attempt to game Google's search results that he has ever seen." Ultimately, Google took retaliatory action and drastically reduced the visibility of JCPenney in searches. Although the retailer denied any involvement, it fired its search engine consulting firm, SearchDex.[20]

In June 2011, JCPenney announced that Ron Johnson will become the company's new CEO.[21] In October 2011, JCPenney sold the 15 remaining catalog outlet stores to SB Capital Group. These stores will remain open then transition to JC's 5 Star Outlets.[22] On December 7, 2011, JCPenney announced the acquisition of 16.6 percent of Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia stock. JCPenney plans to put "mini-Martha Stewart shops" in many of its stores in 2013, as well as starting a website together.[23]

On February 1, 2012, JCPenney began a new pricing method, with "Every Day" prices on most days reflecting what used to be sale prices, "Monthly Value" for certain items every month in place of sales, and "Best Price" the first and third Fridays of each month, tied to paydays.[24][25] Prices would also not end in 9 or 7, instead using whole figures when pricing items.[26] The changes in the stores include a focus on the mini-stores such as those for Martha Stewart products.

Ellen DeGeneres, a former JCPenney employee, becomes the chain's spokesperson in a tour and advertising campaign in Spring 2012.[27] The advertising campaign received backlash from One Million Moms – an arm of the conservative American Family Association – which stated, "Funny that JC Penney thinks hiring an open homosexual spokesperson will help their business when most of their customers are traditional families." JCPenney later issued a statement reassuring that they stood behind DeGeneres as their spokeswoman.

In April 2012, the company announced plans to trim its workforce, laying off nearly 13% of its home office staff in Dallas, and closing a call center in Pittsburgh. Many managers, supervisors and long-time employees were let go on April 30, 2012, due to "simplified practices" that no longer needed as much oversight.[citation needed] In June 2012, the company announced that Michael Francis, the company's president, was leaving the company, after only eight months on the job, effective immediately.[28] In July 2012, the company announced that it was laying off 350 more workers at its headquarters.[29]

In August 2012, JCPenney began rolling out a Shops strategy in stores. The shops are described as stores-within-a-store, planning to eventually roll out 100 shops in 683 stores. The first shops include Levi's, The Original Arizona Jean Co. and i jeans by Buffalo.[30] That month, the company posted a second quarter comparable-store loss of 22%, with internet sales dropping 33%. At an analyst meeting in New York the same day, CEO Ron Johnson said, "I’m completely convinced that our transformation is on track." JCPenney's stock rose 5.9% on Johnson's comments at the analyst meeting, the largest single-day stock increase since late January 2012.[31] The "secret" prototype store is located on the 3rd floor of the store at Valley View Center in Dallas, which has been closed to the public.

Fourth quarter sales for JCPenney, in 2012, were poor. Sales were off 28.4% from a year earlier, same store sales were down 32%. Strategic choices made by CEO Ron Johnson a year earlier, including the change in pricing strategy, were being called into question.[32]
Internet store

In 1998, JCPenney launched its Internet store, which has since grown into one of the largest apparel and home furnishings retail sites on the Internet.[12] The JCPenney store currently ships products to the following countries/regions:[33]

Americas

     Antigua and Barbuda
     Argentina
     Aruba
     Barbados
     Bermuda
     Brazil
     Canada
     Chile
     Colombia
     Costa Rica
     Dominica
     Dominican Republic
     Ecuador
     El Salvador
     Grenada
     Guatemala
     Honduras
     Jamaica
     Martinique
     Mexico
     Montserrat
     Nicaragua
     Panama
     Paraguay
     Peru
     Saint Kitts and Nevis
     Saint Lucia
     Trinidad and Tobago
     Turks and Caicos Islands
     United States

   

Europe

     Austria
     Belgium
     Belize
     Bolivia
     Bulgaria
     Cayman Islands
     Denmark
     Estonia
     Finland
     France
     French Guiana
     Germany
     Gibraltar
     Greece
     Guadeloupe
     Guernsey
     Iceland
     Ireland
     Italy
     Jersey
     Latvia
     Liechtenstein
     Lithuania
     Luxembourg
     Malta
     Monaco
     Netherlands
     Norway
     Portugal
     Reunion
     Romania
     Russian Federation
     Slovakia
     Slovenia
     Spain
     Sweden
     Switzerland
     United Kingdom

   

Asia-Pacific

     Bangladesh
     Brunei
     Cambodia
     India
     Macau
     Maldives
     Pakistan
     Sri Lanka

Africa

     South Africa

Middle East

     Cyprus
     Israel
     Turkey

</span>

Flow Chart of Blow Room(

Blow Room Line:
The number of machines arranged in a line on series to perform all the function to form a uniform lap form cotton bale is called blow room line.

Convensional Blow Room Line:
There are different types of conventional blow room line. It differs manufacturer to manufacturer. For example a typical blow room lines as follows:

Flow Chart of Blow Room(Conventional)

Hopper bale opener
Ultra cleaner or step cleaner
Vertical or twine opener or cleaner
Hopper feeder-1
Porcupine opener
Hopper feeder-2
Scutcher


Flow Chart of Blow Room(Modern)

Bale plucker
Metal detector
Uniclean
Unimix
Uni flex 
Vision shield 
Condenser
Chute feed

Introduction of Blowroom Section | Objects of Blow-room | Basic Operations in the Blowroom

Blowroom consists a number of machines used on succession to open and clean the cotton fibre. Since the tuft size of cotton becomes smaller and smaller, the required intensities of processing necessitates different machine configuration.

Objects of Blowroom: 


1. Opening:
a) To open the compressed bales of fibres.
b) To make the cotton tuft as small as far as possible.

2. Cleaning:
To remove dirt, dust, broken seeds, broken leaves, and other foreign materials from the fibre.

3. Mixing & Blending:
To make good value of yarn and to decrease production cost mixing and blending is done.

4. Lap or flocks formation:
To transfer opened and cleaned fibre into sheet form of definite width and length which is called lap or in modern system directly feed to the carding machine into flocks form.

Basic Operations in the Blowroom:
  • opening 
  • cleaning 
  • mixing or blending 
  • microdust removal 
  • uniform feed to the carding machine 
  • Recycling the waste 
Blow room installations consists of a sequence of different machines to carry out the above said  operations.Moreover Since the tuft size of cotton becomes smaller and smaller, the required intensities of processing necessitates different machine configuration. 

Technological Points in Blowroom 

Opening in blowroom means opening into small flocks.Technological operation of opening means the volume of the flock is increased while the number of fibres remains constant. i.e. the specific density of the material is reduced 

The larger the dirt particle , the better they can be removed . Since almost every blowroom machine can shatter particles, as far as possible a lot of impurities should be eliminated at the start of the process.Opening should be followed immediately by cleaning, if possible in the same machine. 

The higher the degree of opening, the higher the degree of cleaning. A very high cleaning effect is almost always purchased at the cost of a high fibre loss. Higher roller speeds give a better cleaning effect but also more stress on the fibre. 

Cleaning is made more difficult if the impurities of dirty cotton are distributed through a larger quantity of material by mxing with clean cotton.The cleaning efficiency is strongly dependent on the TRASH %. It is also affected by the size of the particle and stickyness of cotton. Therefore cleaning efficiency can be different for different cottons with the same trash %. There is a new concept called CLEANING RESISTANCE. Different cottons have different cleaning resistance.

If cotton is opened well in the opening process, cleaning becomes easier because opened cotton  has more surface area, therefore cleaning is more efficient . If automatic bale opener is used, the tuft size should be as small as possible and the machine stop time should be reduced to the minimum level possible .

If Manual Bale openers are used, the tuft size fed to the feed lattice should be as small as possible .Due to machine harvesting , cotton contains more and more impurities, which furthermore are shattered by hard ginning. Therefore cleaning is always an important basic operation. 

In cleaning, it is necessary to release the adhesion of the impurities to the fibres and to give hte particles an opportunity to separate from the stock. The former is achieved mostly by picking of flocks, the latter is achieved by leading the flocks over a grid. 

Using Inclined spiked lattice for opening cotton in the intial stages is always a better way of opening the cotton with minimum damages. Ofcourse the production is less with such type of machines. 

But one should bear in mind that if material is recyled more in the lattice, neps may increase. Traditional methods use more number of machines to open and clean natural fibres. Mechanical action on fibres causes some deterioration on yarn quality, particularly in terms of neps . Moreover it is true that the staple length of cotton can be significantly shortened . Intensive opening in the initial machines like Bale breaker and blending machines means that shorter overall cleaning lines are adequate. 

In a beating operation, the flocks are subjected to a sudden strong blow. The inertia of the impurities accelerated to a high speed, is substantially greater than that of the opened flocks due to the low air resistance of the impurities. The latter are hurled against the grid and because of their small size, pass between the grid bars into the waste box, while the flocks continue around the periphery of the rotating beater. By using a much shorter machine sequence, fibres with better elastic properties and improved spinnability can be produced. 

Air streams are often used in the latest machine sequence, to separate fibres from trash particles by buoyancy differences rather than beating the material against a series of grid bars. There are three types of feeding apparatus in the blowroom opening machines two feed rollers( clamped) feed roller and a feed table a feed roller and pedals 

Two feed roller arrangements gives the best forwarding motion, but unfortunately results in greatest clamping distance between the cylinders and the beating element feed roller and pedal arrangement gives secure clamping throughout the width and a small clamping distance, which is very critical for an opening machine In a feed roller and table arrangement, the clamping distance can be made very small. This gives intensive opening, but clamping over the whole width is poor, because the roller presses only on the highest points of the web. 

Thin places in the web can be dragged out of hte web as a clump by the beaters Honeydew(sugar) or stickiness in cotton affect the process very badly. Beacause of that production and quality is affected. Particles stick to metal surfaces, and it gets aggreavated with heat and pressure. These deposits change the surface characteristics which directly affects the quality and running behavior.

There are chemicals which can be sprayed to split up the sugar drops to achieve better distribution.But this system should use water solutions which is not recommended due to various reasons. It is better to control the climate inside the department when sticky cotton is used. Low temperature ( around 22 degree Celsius) and low humidity (45% RH). This requires an expensive air conditioning set up. 

The easiest way to process sticky cotton is to mix with good cotton and to process through two blending machines with 6 and 8 doublings and to install machines which will seggregate a heavier particles by buoyancy differences.

General factors which affect the degree of opening , cleaning and fibre loss are, 
  • thickness of the feed web 
  • density of the feed web 
  • fibre coherence 
  • fibre alignment 
  • size of the flocks in the feed (flock size may be same but density is different) 
  • the type of opening device 
  • speed of the opening device 
  • degree of penetration 
  • type of feed (loose or clamped) 
  • distance between feed and opening device 
  • type of opening device 
  • type of clothing 
  • point density of clothing 
  • arrangement of pins, needles, teeth 
  • speeds of the opening devices 
  • throughput speed of material 
  • type of grid bars 
  • area of the grid surface 
  • grid settings 
  • airflow through the grid 
  • condition of pre-opening 
  • quantity of material processed, 
  • position of the machine in the machine sequence 
  • feeding quantity variation to the beater 
  • ambient R.H.% 
  • ambient teperature 
Cotton contains very little dust before ginning. Dust is therefore caused by working of the material on the machine. New dust is being created through shattering of impurities and smashing and rubbing of fibres.  However removal of dust is not simple. Dust particles are very light and therefore float with the cotton in the transport stream.Furthermore the particles adhere quite strongly to the fibres. If they are to be eliminated they are to be rubbed off.The main elimination points for adhering dust therefore, are those points in the process at which high fibre/metal friction or high fibre/fibre friction is produced. 

Removal of finest particles of contaminants and fibre fragments can be accomplished by releasing the dust into the air, like by turning the material over, and then removing the dust-contaminated air. Release of dust into the air occurs whereever the raw material is rolled, beaten or thrown about. Accordingly the air at such positions is sucked away. Perforated drums, stationary perforated drums, stationary combs etc. are some instruments used to remove dust.


http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/ 
9 March 2013

Raw Material Used in Rotor Spinning

Raw Material Used in Rotor Spinning:

Short staple spinning m/c (up to 60 mm fiber length) require

  •  Cotton (CO)
  •  Cotton waste ( secondary m/t recycled m/t)
  •  Cotton noil
  •  Blends of two or more of these materials.
  •  Polyester fibers (PES).
  •  Polyacrylonitrile fiber ( PAC)
  •  Poly amide fiber (PA)
  •  Viscose (CA)
  •  Blends of man-made fibers ( mostly PES/ CV & PAC/CV)
  •  Blends of cotton & man made fibers ( mostly CO/ PES & CO/CV)
Important Fiber Attributes in Rotor Spinning:
  • Fiber strength
  • Fiber fineness (optimum fiber fineness)
  • Short fiber content
  • Variation in fiber length
  • Fiber to metal friction
  • Residual trash and dust content
Raw Material Requirement:

Fiber Length:
Following m/t can be processed according to Reiter Company

Cotton:

  •  Waste <7/8 inches ( for yarns up to 15 tex count)
  •  Short-staple cotton < 1 inch ( for yarns up to 30 tex count )
  •  Medium staple cotton < 1 1/8 inches (for yarn up to 17 tex count )
Man made fibers:-
  •  Staple length up to 60 mm for count = 12 tex yarns
Fiber Fineness:
Finer fibers preferred in rotor spinning usually in the range of

  •  Cotton 2.8 to 4.5 micronaire.
  •  Man- made fibers 1, 1.2 to 1.7 dtex.
Coarse fibers lead to deterioration in spinning conditions; this necessitates the use of higher twist co-efficient.

Fiber Strength:
Due to poorer exploitation of the fiber substance, fibers of the greatest possible strength .

Dirt & Dust:
The rotor-spinning machine reacts very sensitively to the trash content of cotton. Coarse particles such as husk particles stay caught in the rotor groove. They can prevent yarn formation at this point, & this in turn can lead to an end down or to fiber agglomeration at the particle. This gives a thick place at the agglomeration point & immediately a thin place after this. More trash content also lead to more NEP generation. Small particles also lead to deterioration in quality.

Clean raw m/t is therefore a precondition for spinning of yarn on the rotor spinning m/c. in accordance with recommendations from Reiter, the following residual trash content should not be exceeded in the feed sliver:

  •  Up to Ne 6 : 0.3%
  •  Up to Ne20 : 0.2%
  •  Up to Ne 30 : 0.15%
  •  Up to Ne 50 : 0.10%
Other Foreign Matter:
  •  Quartz & mineral dust present in cotton causes wear & tear in m/c
  •  Foreign fibers lead to ends down.
  •  Honey dew makes fiber to stick to m/c parts & cotton free of honey-due should be used.
  •  Spin finish should be taken off before feeding to m/c. it acts same as honey due.
  •  Remnants of the yarn lead to thick places in the yarn, so they should not be used. 
 http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/

Study on the gearing diagram and calculation of flyer speed, spindle & front roller delivery of the speed frame.

Experiment name: Study on the gearing diagram and calculation of flyer speed, spindle & front roller delivery of the speed frame.

Objects:

1.To know about gearing systems of the m/c.
2.To know production of speed frame.
3.To find out spindle speed.
4.To find out bobbin speed.

Main parts:

1.Motor
2.Motor pulley
3.M/C pulley
4.Main shaft
5.Fast wheel
6.Differential box
7.Last wheel
8.Draft change pinion
9.Twist change pinion
10.Rachet wheel
11.Gear wheel
12.Bevel gear
13.Top cone drum
14.Bottom cone drum

Specification:

Motor rpm = 960
Motor pulley dia = 5˝
M/C pulley dia = 7˝
Cradle wheel C = 40T
Cradle carrier wheel D = 44T
Spindle speed change wheel E = 55T
Differential motion spur wheel V = 19T
Jack wheel W = 36T
Bobbin shat chain wheel X = 32T
Bobbin shat wheel Y = 40T
Bobbin pinion Z = 22T
Swivel carrier wheel U = 51T
Differential motion carrier wheel T = 50T
Tender shaft wheel S = 40T
Tender wheel R = 68T
Bottom cone drum change wheel Q = 18T
Tender swivel bracket carrier wheel e = 36T
Top lifter change wheel f = 20T
Wheel on stud bevel g = 44T
Stud bevel wheel h = 22T
Double upright bevel wheel j = 22T
Double upright bevel wheel k = 18T
Reversing bevel l = 70T
Reversing bevel m = 70T
Bobbin lifter change pinion n = 14T
Socket swivel carrier wheel p = 72T
Socket stud wheel q = 13T
Lifter shaft wheel r = 57T
Lifter shaft pinion t = 18T
Lifter rack u
Spindle shaft driving sprocket F = 34T
End spindle shaft sprocket G = 32T
Spindle wheel I = 22T
Spindle shaft wheel H = 40T
Twist change wheel J = 30T
Twist carrier wheel K = 88T
Twist constant change wheel L = 28T
Front roller driving wheel M = 30T
First carrier wheel N = 62T
Second carrier wheel O = 40T
Large front roller wheel P = 81T
Front roller dia = 1˝
Top cone drum dia = 6.5˝
Bottom cone drum dia = 3.87˝ 
Calculation:

Conclusion: The gearing of Speed frame m/c is very complex. Moreover there are several change wheels and pinions, so proper attention and care is necessary during taking specification and doing calculation. From this practical we can asses about different speeds and productions of speed frame. I think this will help me in my future.

http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/search/label/Simplex
8 March 2013

Carding Setting Between Licker-in (Taker-in) to Cylinder, Cylinder to Flat and Cylinder to Doffer

Carding is the most important process in spinning. It contributes a lot to the yarn quality. The Carding efficiency is the mostly depend on optimum setting of the Licker-in to Cylinder, Cylinder to Flat and Cylinder to Doffer. 
Settings between Licker-in to Cylinder, Cylinder to Flat and Cylinder to Doffer:
Carding setting

1. The setting between cylinder and doffer is the closest setting in the card. This setting mainly depends upon the cylinder speed, hank of the delivered sliver and the type of wire. Cylinder speed up to 360, the setting should be 0.1mm. For cylinder speeds more than 450, the setting ranges from 0.125 to 0.15.

2. If the setting between cylinder and doffer is very close, the wires will get polished and this will affect the fiber transfer. If the setting is too wide, the fibers will not be transferred to doffer from the cylinder, hence cylinder will get loaded. While processing synthetic fibers cylinder loading will badly affect the yarn quality. Moreover, it is difficult to improve the wire condition if the loading is severe. The only solution would be to change the wire. Therefore enough care should be taken while processing synthetic fibres.

3. The most critical setting in a carding machine is between cylinder and flat tops. While processing cotton, it can be as close as 0.175 mm provided the mechanical accuracy of flat tops is good. Since most of the cards are with stationary flats at the licker-in side, the setting from the back to front for flats can be 0.25, 0.2.0.2, 0.2, 0.2mm.

4. Closer the setting between cylinder and flats, better the yarn quality. Neps are directly affected by this setting. Of course, very close setting increase the flat waste. For processing cotton the setting can be 0.25, 0.2, 0.2, 0.2, 0.2mm. For synthetic fibers it can be 0.3, 0.25, 0.25, 0.25, 0.25mm

5. Most of the cards are with 6 to 1 1 stationary flats at the licker-in side. This setting can start with 0.4 mm and end with 0.25mm.

6. The wire points can start with 140 ppsi and end with 320 ppsi. The work done by the first few stationary flats is very high; therefore the wear of these flats is also high. It would be better if the first 50% of the flats are changed after 100000 kgs of production and the rest after 150000 kgs of production.

7. These stationary flats open the material so that, the setting between cylinder and flats can be as close as possible.

8. The setting between feed plate and Licker-in depends upon the type of feed plate. Conventional feed plate setting is decided mainly by the feed weight and to some extent by the fiber length and type. With the latest feed plate and feed roller arrangements, the setting is decided mainly by the fiber length and to some extent by the feed weight.

9. Normally the setting between the feed plate and Lickr-in is around 0.45 to 0.7mm, depending upon the feed weight and fiber type.

10. The setting between Licker-in and the first mote knife is around 0.35 to 0.5 mm. This helps to remove the heavier trash particles and dust. Closer the setting, higher the wastage. The setting between Licker-in and combing segments is around 0.45 to 0.6. This helps to open the material.

11. Some cards have two mote knifes in the Licker-in under casing. The setting is around 0.4 to 0.5mm. This helps to remove the smaller trash and dust particles.

12. The setting between the cylinder and stationary flats at Doffer side helps to transfer the fibers to doffer by stripping the fibers to the top of the cylinder wire. This setting can be as close as 0.15mm. The number of wire points on stationary flats also plays a major role. It is normally around 300 to 400. For a high production application it can be as high as 600.

13. For cotton processing, the stationary flats are fixed with a knife attachment. The setting should be as close as possible, i.e. around 0.15mm. This helps to remove the trash particles of very small size.

14. The setting between cylinder and cylinder under casing should be as per the manufacturer's recommendation. The design of under casing is different for different manufacturers. This setting is very important, as wrong settings will affect the fiber transfer and can also create air turbulence.

Speeds:
  1. Higher cylinder speed helps fiber transfer. Higher the production, higher should be the cylinder speed.
  2. Higher cylinder speed improves carding action, thereby imperfections are reduced.
  3. Higher Licker-in speed for coarse fibers and dirty cotton helps to remove the trash and improves,  the yarn quality. For fine and long cottons, higher speed results in fibre rupture, therefore, flat waste and comber noil will be more.
  4. Higher flat speed, improves yarn quality and at the same time increases the flat waste.
  5. With the same flat speed, higher the carding production, lower the flat waste and vice-versa.
  6. Very high tension drafts will affect carding U%. It is better to keep the draft between feed rollers to doffer around 75 to 95. The results are found better with these drafts. 
http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/search/label/Carding 
24 February 2013

American Eagle Outfitters

American Eagle Outfitters is an American clothing and accessories retailer, headquartered in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. It was founded in 1977 by brothers Jerry and Mark Silverman as a subsidiary of Retail Ventures, Inc., a company which also owned and operated Silverman's Menswear. The Silvermans sold their ownership interests in 1991 to Jacob Price of Knoxville, Tennessee.[2] American eagle is the parent company of Aerie and formerly of 77 kids. [1]

The brand targets 15- to 25-year-old males and females, with 911 American Eagle Outfitters stores and 158 aerie stand-alone stores.[1] In 1977, the first American Eagle store opens in Twelve Oaks Mall in Novi, MI as the destination for the great outdoors.[3]

Some of the brand's more popular products are low-rise jeans, polo shirts, graphic T-shirts, henley shirts, boxers and briefs, outerwear, and swimwear.[4]
Contents

    1 Development
    2 Corporate and headquarters
        2.1 Staffing Partnership
        2.2 Franchise Agreement
    3 Stores and other brands
        3.1 aerie
        3.2 Martin + Osa
        3.3 77kids
    4 International Expansion
    5 Controversies
        5.1 Strike
        5.2 Abercrombie & Fitch lawsuits
    6 References
    7 External links

Development
American Eagle Outfitters, Green Oak Village Place

When the Silvermans first opened an American Eagle Outfitters store in 1977, they were looking to diversify their Fashion|menswear business. Stores were set up in shopping malls and a catalog was established. The chain grew for much of the 1980s. In 1989, the owners decided to refocus their business on American Eagle Outfitters, selling their other retail chains. At that time, there were 137 American Eagle Outfitters stores including 37 in the United States.

Despite the plans for quick growth after the reorganization, American Eagle Outfitters opened only 16 new stores by 1991 and the company was losing money. At this point, the Schottensteins, who had been 50% owners of the chain since 1980, bought out the founding Silverman family's interest. This change in leadership resulted in American Eagle finding its present niche: casual clothing for men and women selling private label clothes. AE opened the first Canadian store in 2001.[citation needed]

When the company began trading on the NASDAQ stock exchange in the second quarter of 1994, it had 167 stores and a healthy cash flow. With the cash infusion from the IPO, the company opened more than 90 new stores within the next year. Several new executives joined the company in 1995 and '96, leading to another change in the target demographic. The company now wanted to reach more women and focus on people between the ages of 18 and 32.[citation needed] The strategy worked[citation needed], and over the next five years, revenues quintupled to $1 billion by 2000.[2] As of January 28, 2012, American Eagle operated 911 American Eagle Outfitters stores, 158 aerie stand-alone stores and 21 77kids stores. The company also had 21 franchised stores operated by franchise partners in 10 countries.[1]
Corporate and headquarters

In mid-2007, American Eagle Outfitters moved its headquarters from Warrendale, Pennsylvania to a more urban location at the SouthSide Works complex in Pittsburgh. The cost of the buildings and adjacent property was approximately $21 million (excluding interior finishing and additional construction costs). The addresses of the buildings are "19 Hot Metal Street" and "77 Hot Metal Street", with the numbers symbolizing the first store opening in 1977. The facilities of the Southside Works Campus include a Private Garage, a Lab Store for each brand, Photo Studio and in-house Cafeteria. Other offices are located in NYC (Design and Production).[5]
Staffing Partnership

In June 2008, the company signed an exclusive staffing agreement with JBCStyle, a leading fashion & retail recruiting agency with offices in New York City, Los Angeles & San Francisco. This agreement encompassed all of American Eagle Outfitters' freelance staffing needs in New York City as well as any outsourced permanent search. The company has continued to grow this partnership and has opted to engage JBCStyle's sister Company Jonathan Beth Consultants to manage payroll for all corporate hourly employees. American Eagle Outfitters has renewed its agreement with JBCStyle for two subsequent years.
Franchise Agreement

In June 2009, the company signed the franchisee agreement with M. H. Alshaya, one of the leading retailers of the Middle East.[6] The agreement will see the introduction of the first stores outside the North American market, with the first two opening in Dubai and Kuwait on March 16 and March 25, 2010, respectively and a store opening on October 15, 2011 in Kaslik near Beirut, Lebanon.
Stores and other brands

Items are placed on white wooden shelving, tables, or clothes racks. The clothes in high volume stores are hung on wooden hangers, and lower volume stores have basic black hangers. There are also usually sofas/chairs in the back of the store, usually along with a flat screen television. The floors are typically wood or concrete. The theme and displays change based on seasonal lines and promotions. Music is played at a quiet volume to cater to older people.

In addition to its namesake brand, the company has developed and announced plans for several new brand and concept initiatives poised to drive new growth as the brand nears saturation in current markets.[citation needed]
aerie
The aerie logo.

In February 2006, American Eagle launched the aerie lingerie sub-brand, targeting the American 15- to 21-year-old female demographic segment.[7] In addition to lingerie such as a wide variety of bras and other undergarments, the aerie line also sells dormwear, active apparel, loungewear, accessories and sleepwear. What started as a sub-brand quickly became a standalone concept in its own right, featuring a complete fitness line, called aerie f.i.t. The aerie brand is sold in American Eagle Outfitters stores, on-line through the American Eagle Web site, and in stand-alone aerie retail stores. The first stand-alone aerie store opened in August 2006 in Greenville, S.C.[8] and was followed by two more test stores later that year. As of December 2010, there are currently 147 stand-alone aerie stores in the United States and in Canada.[9]
Martin + Osa

The company's second stand-alone lifestyle concept, launched in the fall of 2006 and targeted men and women from 28 to 40 years of age.[10] It featured cashmere sweaters and casual clothing for an older target audience. They also sold products by Fred Perry, Ray-Ban, Adidas, Onitsuka Tiger, and HOBO International. In March 2010, management announced that all 28 Martin + Osa stores be closed, after a failed attempt at success in retail markets, causing AEO, Inc. to lose up to $44 million.[11][12]
77kids

In October 2008, American Eagle released and launched 77kids, a line of clothing aimed at children from two to ten years of age.[13] Initially, an on-line concept only, AEO opened its first 77kids store on July 15, 2010, in the The Mall at Robinson in Pittsburgh, PA,[14] and eight others followed that year. Expansion continued in Fiscal Year 2011.

American Eagle Outfitters announced in May 15, 2012 that they would sell or will close all 22 of the 77kids stores by the end of their second quarter (July 2012).[15] Robert Hanson, who became the new CEO in January 2012, said 77kids had a loss after taxes of roughly $24 million on sales of $40 million in the 2011 fiscal year, which ended Jan. 28 2012. On August 3, 2012, American Eagle Outfitters completed the sale of its 77kids to Ezrani 2 Corp, a company formed by Ezra Dabah, the former Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of The Children's Place. [16] Ezrani 2 renamed the stors to "Ruum" in 2013.[citation needed]
International Expansion

American Eagle first opened an International Store in Canada in 2000. In 2003, AE opened the first store outside North America Store in San Juan, Puerto Rico. In 2010, AEO crossed the Atlantic Ocean to open stores in Kuwait, Riyadh, and Dubai. A store in Kaslik near Beirut, Lebanon, was opened on October 15, 2011. A store in Cairo, Egypt, opened in late 2011. In September 2011, there was the openings of two stores in Moscow, Russia. Its first store in Jordan opened in November 2011 in the brand-new Taj Mall. Its first store in Tokyo, Japan, opened in April 18, 2012. The first store in Tel Aviv, Israel, opened in February 2012,[17] after the Israeli-based clothing retailer FOX, signed a contract with AEO. Currently, there are also stores in Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong-Kong, as well as in Warsaw, Poland..[18]

American Eagle is also slated to open stores in Mexico. The first one opened at Mexico City on Fashion Mall Perisur on February 20th 2013, and the next one will open at Guadalajara later this year on Fashion Mall GalerĂ­as Guadalajara. [19]
Controversies
Strike

In 2007, textile and apparel workers union UNITE HERE launched the "American Vulture" back-to-school boycott of American Eagle[20] in protest of alleged workers' rights violations at the company's Canadian distribution contractor National Logistics Services (NLS). On the 2007 second-quarter conference call,[21] CEO James O'Donnell clarified the American Eagle's relationship with NLS and its effect on business. He explained,
“     We owned NLS with the acquisition of Braemar back in 2000 and we subsequently sold off NLS in 2006, and we are currently a customer of NLS... We have really no involvement at all with Unite Here and NLS. Our only involvement with NLS is basically as a customer and there have been some allegations made I think to some of, to the public about it affecting our business. I can tell you right now it has not affected our business.     ”
Abercrombie & Fitch lawsuits

Since 1999, Abercrombie & Fitch has sued American Eagle Outfitters at least three times for allegedly copying its designs and its advertisements. On all occasions, American Eagle prevailed in court under the statement that A&F cannot stop American Eagle from presenting similar designs, since such designs cannot be copyrighted in the United States. Nevertheless, American Eagle clothing designs have since trended away in appearance from Abercrombie & Fitch designs. The merchandise offered by American Eagle is considered to be "retro/vintage" cost-efficient clothing, whereas Abercrombie & Fitch merchandise has become an internationally known "near-luxury" line of clothing with "preppy", high-grade, and high-priced fashions, on the same level with that of companies such as the Polo Ralph Lauren company.[22] Judges have generally ruled that giving Abercrombie exclusive rights to market its clothing in a certain way "would be anti-competitive."[23]
15 February 2013

What is Rotor? | Principle of Rotor Spinning | Tasks of the Rotor Spinning Machine

The Rotor:
The rotor is the main spinning element of the rotor-spinning m/c. Yarn quality ,character working performance of yarn productivity, & costs etc. all depend chiefly on the rotor. The most important parameters of the rotor that exert influence are
  •  The rotor form
  •  The groove
  •  The rotor diameter
  •  Rotational speed along with
  •  The rotor bearing
  •  Co-efficient of friction b/w the fiber & the rotor wall.
  •  The air-flow conditions inside the rotor
  •  Liability to fouling
Rotors are replaceable element in the m/c.

Tasks of the Rotor Spinning Machine:
The basic tasks of the rotor spinning machine are

  •  Opening (& attenuating) almost to individual fibers (fiber separation).
  •  Cleaning.
  •  Homogenizing through back doubling.
  •  Combining i.e. forming a coherent linear strand from individual fibers.
  •  Ordering (the fibers in the strand must have an orientation as far as possible in the longitudinal direction).
  •  Improving evenness through back-doubling.
  •  Imparting strength by twisting
  •  Winding.
Principle of Rotor Spinning:
The general principle of rotor spinning is shown in Figure. The input fiber strand is a drawn sliver. A sliver may have more than 20,000 fibers in its cross-section. This means that a yarn of 100 fibers per cross-section will require a total draft of 200. This amount of draft is substantially higher than that of ring spinning. Drafting in rotor spinning is accomplished using a comber roll (mechanical draft) which opens the input sliver followed by an air stream (air draft). These two operations produce an amount of draft that is high enough to reduce the 20,000 fibers entering the comber roll down to few fibers (5-10 fibers). In order to produce a yarn of about 100 fibers per cross-section, the groups of few fibers emerging from the air duct are deposited on the internal wall of the rotor and a fiber ring is formed inside the rotor.

The total draft in rotor spinning is, therefore a combination of true draft from the feed roll to the rotor (in the order of thousands) and a condensation to accumulate the fiber groups into a fiber ring inside the rotor. The total draft ratio is the ratio between the delivery or the take-up speed and the feed roll speed. This should approximately amount to the ratio between the number of fibers in the sliver cross-section and the number of fibers in the yarn cross-section. 

Rotor Spinning process
Consolidation in rotor spinning is achieved by mechanical twisting. The torque generating the twist in the yarn is applied by the rotation of the rotor with respect to the point of the yarn contacting the rotor navel. The amount of twist (turns per inch) is determined by the ratio between the rotor speed (rpm) and the take up speed (inch/min). Every turn of the rotor produces a turn of twist, and a removal of a length of yarn of 1/tpi inches.

The winding operation in rotor spinning is completely separate from the drafting and the twisting operations. The only condition here is that the yarn is taken up at a constant rate. This separation between winding and twisting allows the formation of larger yarn packages than those in ring spinning.

Sequence of Operation:
The feed stock in form of either card sliver or draw frame sliver from first or second passage drawing. The sliver runs from a can beneath the spinning unit into the feed trumpet. A feed roller grips the sliver & pushes it over the feed through into the region of the opening roller. A spring ensures firm clamping of the sliver by urging the trough towards feed roller. In the event of an end-break, the feed unit is stopped either by stopping the feed roller rotation or by pivoting the in feed trumpet, in each case sliver feed stops automatically. The signal pulse causing this effect is generated by a yarn-sensing arm.

In the in conventional spinning processes, the fiber strand at in feed is maintained as a coherent structure & is merely attenuated during spinning. In rotor spinning, the fiber strand is opened to individual fibers. This task is performed mainly by the opening roller. This small roller which is clothed with needles or saw teeth, combs through the fiber beard projecting from the nip between the feed roller & the tough it transports the plucked fibers to the feed tube. An air flow is needed for further transport of the fibers to the rotor. This is generated by central fan that draws air by suction through leads from each rotor box. To facilitate generation of this under pressure, the rotor box must be hermetically sealed as far as possible. The suction stream in the feed tube lifts the fibers off the surface of the opening roller & leads them to the rotor. In the course of this movement, both the air & the fibers are accelerated because of the convergent form of the feed tubes. This represents a second draft following the nip trough/ opening roller & giving further separation of the fibers. Moreover partial straightening of the fibers is achieved in this air flow. A third draft arises upon arrival of the fibers on the wall of the rotor because the peripheral speed of the rotor is several times as the speed of the fiber. This is a very important feature because it contributes significantly to good orientation of the fibers. The last straightening of the fibers occurs as the fiber slides down the rotor wall into the groove under the influence of the enormous centrifugal forces work within the rotor.

Speed Interrelationship:
Normal & maximum revolutions & speeds are

  •  Rpm of opening roller :5000 -10000 rpm
  •  Rpm of rotor up to 100000 rpm
  •  Delivery speed: up to 200m/min.
Technical Data of Rotor Spinning Machine:
  •  Number of spinning positions per m/c           up to 220
  •  Count range                                                12- 125 Tex (5 – 50 Ne)
  •  Draft                                                           25- 400
  •  Speed of rotation of opening roller               6000- 11000 rpm
  •  Rotation speed of rotor                                up tp 120000 rpm
  •  Rotor diameter                                            32 -65 mm
  •  Delivery speed ( m/ min)                              up to 200
  •  Package mass                                             up to 5 kg
  •  Angle of taper                                             2° - 4° 20’
  •  Winding angle                                             29° – 45°