Textile & Fashion World

Sizing Chemicals & Their Importance:
Film forming materials:
Starch is the oldest film forming material used in sizing of cellulosic fibers. It is also the most widely used in the world due to its low cost and ease of availability. In Pakistan, mostly maize starch is used, whereas, potato starch is more popular in Europe. 

PVA is the second largest film former used in sizing. It is mostly used on synthetic yarns such as polyester and poly/cotton blends. PVA coating is strong, abrasion resistant and can easily be desized in hot water. Its strength is greater than starch and also more flexible than most standard starches. PVA is less prone to setup in the size box compared to starches. PVA can form foam in the size box which is controlled with a deformer. PVA may be too strong for some sizing applications. In this case, some weaker film forming polymers such as starch are added to modify the mixture, which also reduces the cost, since PVA is more expensive than starch.

The most widely used size materials are starch and PVA. However, other size materials have been developed and used for specific purposes. Carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) is produced from wood pulp and cotton lint and has good adhesion to cotton. 

Polyacrylic acid based sizes (polyacrylates and polyacrylamides) are used to size hydrophobic fibers and their blends such as nylon, acrylics, polyester, etc because of their good bonding.


Properties of a Good Sizing Material:

1. Environmentally safe.
2. Good film former.
3. Reasonable use economics.
4. Penetration of yarn bundle.
5. Elasticity.
6. Good film flexibility.
7. Good specific adhesion.
8. Good frictional properties.
9. Transparency.
10. Bacterial resistance.
11. Reasonable strength.
12. Controllable viscosity.
13. Water soluble or water dispersible.
14. Good hygroscopicity characteristics.
15. Uniformity.
16. Clean split at bust rods.
17. Improves weaving efficiencies.
18. No effect on drying.
19. Reasonable extensibility.
20. Recoverable and reusable
21. Low static propensity.
22. No skimming tendency.
23. Easily removed.
24. Easily prepared.
25. Lack of odor.
26. No beam blocking.
27. Compatible with other ingredients.
28. Good abrasion resistance.
29. Neutral pH.
30. High fold endurance.
31. Insensitive to high heat.
32. Low BOD.
33. No build up on dry cans.
34. Reduced shedding.
35. Rapid drying.
36. No re-deposition of size
37. Insensitive to changes in relative humidity.

Hemp Preparation and Spinning:

Figure : Process of manufacture of viscose rayon fiber

Experiment name: Study on the material passage of Ring frame.

The projection microscope is the standard method for measuring wool fibre diameter, and all other methods have to be checked for accuracy against it. The method is also applicable to any other fibres with a circular cross-section. The method involves preparing a microscope slide of short lengths of fibre which is then viewed using a microscope that projects an image of the fibres onto a horizontal screen for ease of measurement. The apparatus is shown diagrammatically in Fig. Techniques are followed that avoid bias and ensure a truly random sample.

Color Fastness:

• High-heat-treatment carbon fibers (HTT), where final heat treatment temperature should be above 2000°C and can be associated with high-modulus type fiber. 
• Intermediate-heat-treatment carbon fibers (IHT), where final heat treatment temperature should be around or above 1500°C and can be associated with high-strength type fiber.  
• Low-heat-treatment carbon fibers, where final heat treatment temperatures not greater than 1000°C. These are low modulus and low strength materials.

1. Creel stand and creel. 
2. Front roller. 
3. Yarn guide. 
4. Ring and ring rail  
5. Tin cylinder. 
6. Traveller.  
7. Thread weight or slip roller. 
8.  Lappet  Spindle.

Levi Strauss & Co. (pron.: /?li?va? 'str??s/), also known as LS&CO or simply Levi's, is a privately held American clothing company known worldwide for its Levi's brand of denim jeans. It was founded in 1853 when Levi Strauss came from Buttenheim, Bavaria, to San Francisco, California to open a west coast branch of his brothers' New York dry goods business. In 1873, Levi Strauss and tailor Jacob Davis received a U.S. patent to make the first riveted men's work pants out of denim: the first blue jeans. The company briefly experimented (in the 1970s) with a public stock listing, but remains owned and controlled by descendants and relatives of Levi Strauss's four nephews. The company's corporate headquarters is located at Levi's Plaza in San Francisco.[3]
Contents

    1 Organization
    2 History
        2.1 1990s and later
    3 Advertising
    4 Marketing
    5 References
    6 Further reading
    7 External links

Organization

Levi Strauss & Co. is a worldwide corporation organized into three geographic divisions: Levi Strauss Americas (LSA), based in the San Francisco headquarters; Levi Strauss Europe, Middle East and Africa (LSEMA), based in Brussels; and Asia Pacific Division (APD), based in Singapore. The company employs a staff of approximately 10,500 people worldwide. The core Levi's was founded in 1873 in San Francisco, specializing in riveted denim jeans and different lines of casual and street fashion.[4]

From the early 1960s through the mid-1970s, Levi Strauss experienced significant growth in its business as the more casual look of the 1960s and 1970s ushered in the "blue jeans craze" and served as a catalyst for the brand. Levi's, under the leadership of Walter Haas Jr., Peter Haas, Ed Combs, and Mel Bacharach, expanded the firm's clothing line by adding new fashions and models, including stone-washed jeans through the acquisition of Great Western Garment Co. (GWG), a Canadian clothing manufacturer, and introducing Permanent Press trousers under the Sta-prest name.

The company experienced rapid expansion of its manufacturing capacity from 16 plants to more than 63 plants in the United States from 1964 to 1974 and 25 overseas. They used of "pay for performance" manufacturing at the sewing machine operator level up.

2004 saw a sharp decline of GWG in the face of global outsourcing, so the company was closed and the Edmonton manufacturing plant shut down.[5] The Dockers brand, launched in 1986[6] which is sold largely through department store chains, helped the company grow through the mid-1990s, as denim sales began to fade. Dockers were introduced into Europe in 1993. Levi Strauss attempted to sell the Dockers division in 2004 to relieve part of the company's $2 billion outstanding debt.[7]

Launched in 2003, Levi Strauss Signature features jeanswear and casualwear.[8] In November 2007, Levi's released a mobile phone in co-operation with ModeLabs. Many of the phone's cosmetic attributes are customisable at the point of purchase.
History

Levi Strauss started the business at the 90 Sacramento Street address in San Francisco. He next moved the location to 62 Sacramento Street then 63 & 65 Sacramento Street.

Jacob Davis, a Jewish emigrant from Latvia, was a tailor who frequently purchased bolts of cloth made from hemp[citation needed] from Levi Strauss & Co.'s wholesale house. After one of Davis' customers kept purchasing cloth to reinforce torn pants, he had an idea to use copper rivets to reinforce the points of strain, such as on the pocket corners and at the base of the button fly. Davis did not have the required money to purchase a patent, so he wrote to Strauss suggesting that they go into business together. After Levi accepted Jacob's offer, on May 20, 1873, the two men received U.S. Patent 139,121 from the United States Patent and Trademark Office. The patented rivet was later incorporated into the company's jean design and advertisements. Contrary to an advertising campaign suggesting that Levi Strauss sold his first jeans to gold miners during the California Gold Rush (which peaked in 1849), the manufacturing of denim overalls only began in the 1870s. The company then created their first pair of Levis 501 Jeans in the 1890s, a style that went on to become the world's best selling item of clothing.[9]
photo of an advertising sign for Levi Strauss & Co. painted on a brick wall in Woodland, California
Levi Strauss advertising sign

Modern jeans began to appear in the 1920s, but sales were largely confined to the working people of the western United States, such as cowboys, lumberjacks, and railroad workers. Levi’s jeans apparently were first introduced to the East during the dude ranch craze of the 1930s, when vacationing Easterners returned home with tales (and usually examples) of the hard-wearing pants with rivets. Another boost came in World War II, when blue jeans were declared an essential commodity and were sold only to people engaged in defense work. From a company with fifteen salespeople, two plants, and almost no business east of the Mississippi in 1946, the organization grew in thirty years to include a sales force of more than 22,000, with 50 plants and offices in 35 countries.[10]

Between the 1950s and 1980s, Levi's jeans became popular among a wide range of youth subcultures, including greasers, mods, rockers, hippies and skinheads. Levi's popular shrink-to-fit 501s were sold in a unique sizing arrangement; the indicated size referred to the size of the jeans prior to shrinking, and the shrinkage was substantial. The company still produces these unshrunk, uniquely sized jeans, and they are still Levi's number one selling product. Although popular lore (abetted by company marketing) holds that the original design remains unaltered, this is not the case: the company's president got too close to a campfire, and the rivet at the bottom of the crotch conducted the fire's heat too well; the offending rivet, which is depicted in old advertisements, was removed.[11]
1990s and later
Levi's 506 inside

By the 1990s, the brand was facing competition from other brands and cheaper products from overseas, and began accelerating the pace of its US factory closures and its use of offshore subcontracting agreements. In 1991, Levi Strauss faced a scandal involving pants made in the Northern Mariana Islands, where some 3% of Levi's jeans sold annually with the Made in the USA label were shown to have been made by Chinese laborers under what the United States Department of Labor called "slavelike" conditions. Today, most Levi's jeans are made outside the US, though a few of the higher end, more expensive styles are still made in the U.S.

Cited for sub-minimum wages, seven-day work weeks with 12-hour shifts, poor living conditions and other indignities, Tan Holdings Corporation, Levi Strauss' Marianas subcontractor, paid what were then the largest fines in U.S. labor history, distributing more than $9 million in restitution to some 1,200 employees.[12][13][14] Levi Strauss claimed no knowledge of the offenses, then severed ties to the Tan family and instituted labor reforms and inspection practices in its offshore facilities.

The activist group Fuerza Unida (United Force) was formed following the January 1990 closure of a plant in San Antonio, Texas, in which 1,150 seamstresses, some of whom had worked for Levi Strauss for decades, saw their jobs exported to Costa Rica.[15] During the mid- and late-1990s, Fuerza Unida picketed the Levi Strauss headquarters in San Francisco and staged hunger strikes and sit-ins in protest of the company's labor policies.[16][17][18]

The company took on multi-billion dollar debt in February 1996 to help finance a series of leveraged stock buyouts among family members. Shares in Levi Strauss stock are not publicly traded; the firm is today owned almost entirely by indirect descendants and relatives of Levi Strauss, whose four nephews inherited the San Francisco dry goods firm after their uncle's death in 1902.[19] The corporation's bonds are traded publicly, as are shares of the company's Japanese affiliate, Levi Strauss Japan K.K.

In June 1996, the company offered to pay its workers an unusual dividend of up to $750 million in six years' time, having halted an employee stock plan at the time of the internal family buyout. However, the company failed to make cash flow targets, and no worker dividends were paid.[20] In 2002, Levi Strauss began a close business collaboration with Walmart, producing a special line of "Signature" jeans and other clothes for exclusive sale in Walmart stores until 2006.[21] Levi Strauss Signature jeans can now be purchased at several stores in the US, Canada, India, Pakistan and Japan.

According to the New York Times, Levi Strauss leads the apparel industry in trademark infringement cases, filing nearly 100 lawsuits against competitors since 2001. Most cases center on the alleged imitation of Levi's back pocket double arc stitching pattern (U.S. trademark #1,139,254), which Levi filed for trademark in 1978.[22] Levi's has successfully sued Guess?, Polo Ralph Lauren, Esprit Holdings, Zegna, Zumiez and Lucky Brand Jeans, among other companies.[23]

By 2007, Levi Strauss was again said to be profitable after declining sales in nine of the previous ten years.[24] Its total annual sales, of just over $4 billion, were $3 billion less than during its peak performance in the mid-1990s.[25] After more than two decades of family ownership, rumors of a possible public stock offering were floated in the media in July 2007.[26] In 2009, it was noted in the media for selling Jeans on interest-free credit, due to the global recession.[27][28] In 2010, the company partnered with Filson, an outdoor goods manufacturer in Seattle, to produce a high-end line of jackets and workwear.[29]
Advertising

Levi's marketing style has often made use of old recordings of popular music in television commercials, ranging from traditional pop to punk rock. Notable examples include Ben E King ("Stand By Me"), Percy Sledge ("When a Man Loves a Woman"), Eddie Cochran ("C'mon Everybody!"), Marc Bolan ("20th Century Boy"), Screamin' Jay Hawkins ("Heart Attack & Vine"), The Clash ("Should I Stay or Should I Go?"), as well as lesser known material, such as "Falling Elevators" and "The City Sleeps" by MC 900 Ft. Jesus and "Flat Beat" and "Monday Massacre" by Mr. Oizo.

Many of these songs were re-released by their record labels as a tie-in with the ad campaigns, resulting in increased popularity and sales of the recordings and the creation of iconic visual associations with the music, such as the use of a topless male model wearing jeans underwater in the 1986 adverts featuring "Wonderful World" and "Mad about the Boy" and the puppet, Flat Eric, in the ads featuring music by Mr. Oizo.
Songs popularized or re-popularized by Levi's commercials Song title     Artist     Original recording     Year of Levi's advert     UK chart     US chart
"Wonderful World"     Sam Cooke     1960     1986     2    
"I Heard It Through the Grapevine"     Marvin Gaye     1968     1986     8    
"Stand by Me"     Ben E. King     1961     1987     1    
"When a Man Loves a Woman"     Percy Sledge     1966     1987     2    
"C'mon Everybody"     Eddie Cochran     1958     1988     14    
"The Joker"     Steve Miller Band     1976     1990     1    
"Should I Stay or Should I Go"     The Clash     1982     1991     1    
"20th Century Boy"     T. Rex     1973     1991     13    
"Mad about the Boy"     Dinah Washington     1952     1992        
"Piece of My Heart"     Erma Franklin     1967     1992     9    
"Inside"     Stiltskin     1994     1994     1    
"Turn On, Tune In, Cop Out"     Freak Power     1993     1995     3    
"Boombastic"     Shaggy     1995     1995     1    
"Spaceman"     Babylon Zoo     1995     1996     1    
"Underwater Love"     Smoke City     1997     1997     4    
"A Nanny in Manhattan"     Lilys     1996     1998     16    
"Whine and Grine"     Prince Buster     1967     1998     21    
"Flat Beat"     Mr. Oizo     1999     1999     1    
"Background Blues"     Otto Sieben     1999     1999    
"Dirge"     Death in vegas     2000     2000    
"Before You Leave"     Pepe Deluxé     2001     2001     20    
"Crazy Beat"     Blur     2003     2003     18    
Marketing

During the launch of Levi's Curve ID jeans, Levi launched a 5 week integrated marketing campaign that touched on experiential marketing, social media and outdoor events in shopping malls and city centers throughout the UK.

Brand ambassadors for Levi's encouraged women to find their perfect curve jeans shape in-store for the chance to win a £1000 Levi's shopping spree. The idea behind the campaign was to drive long-term engagement with the brand.[30]

Card Clothing:  
The inclined wire set in base material which are covered around the surface of taker in. Cylinder, doffer and flat in the carding machine is called card clothing.

i. Point density being high, carding action is good.
ii. Wire point flexible so fibre damage is less.
iii. Fibre, yarn can produced.

Add-on materials:

Different Parts of a Loom

Slasher Sizing Machine

Principle

Figure 2: Negative tappet shedding mechanism

The heald shafts have heald eyes T and U through which the war p threads pass X is the war p sheet and Y is the cloth. The odd ends are passed through one heald shaft while the even ends are passed through the other heald shaft.