8 September 2012
Basic Woven Fabric Structure | Plain Weave | Twill Weave | Satin/sateen Weave
Fabric Structure:
The
form of interlacing of warp and weft yarns can be divided basically
into three categories- plain, twill and satin/sateen weave. These three
kinds of forms are called basic weaves.
1. Plain Weave:
The simplest of all weaves is the plain weave.
Each filling yarn passes alternately over and under one warp yarn. Each
warp yarn passes alternately over and under each filling yarn. Some
examples of plain-weave fabric are crepe, taffeta, organdy, and muslin.
The plain weave may also have variations, which include the following:
Warp rib weave-
Warp rib weaves may be described as plain weave in which two or more
picks are inserted in the same shed. Warp rib weaves are normally used
in warp faced constructions. The warp cover factor and the warp crimp
are substantially higher than the weft cover factor and the weft crimp.
The intention is to produce fabrics with prominent weft-way rib formed
by the crowns of the warp threads.
Weft rib weave-
Weft rib may be described as plain weave in which two or more ends
weave together as one. It is difficult to achieve very high weft cover
factors in weft faced plain-weave cloths. By using two finer ends
weaving as one, it becomes possible to achieve higher weft cover factor.
Such cloths are expensive to weave and not very common.
Basket, matt or hopsack weave-
In matt, basket or hopsack weaves two or more ends and two or more
picks weave as one. The simplest and commonest of these weave is 2/2
matt. (Refer to Annex 2 for weave diagrams)
2. Twill Weave:
2. Twill Weave:
A
weave that repeats on 3 or more ends and picks & produces diagonal
lines on the face of the fabric. A twill weave is characterized by
diagonal rib (twill lines) on the face of the fabric. These twill lines
are produced by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but
displacing the interlacing points of each end by one pick relative to
that of the previous end. In twill weave line moves sinistrally (Right -
Left, Z twill) and dextrally (Left - Right, S twill). Common
derivatives of twill weave are as follows:
Zigzag weave-
If the direction of the diagonal in a twill fabric is reversed
periodically across the width, a zigzag effect is produced. Zigzag weave
is achieved by simply combining two S and Z twill weaves of equal
repeat.
Diamond weave-
Diamond weaves are achieved by combining two symmetrical zigzag weaves
of equal repeat. Diamond designs are vertically and horizontally
symmetrical.
Herringbone weave-
In Herringbone weave also the twill direction is reversed periodically
like zigzag weave but at the point of reversal the order of
interlacement is also reversed and then twill line commence as usual.
Diaper weave- Diaper weaves are produced when we combine two Herringbone designs. Diaper designs are diagonally symmetrical.
3. Satin/sateen Weave:
3. Satin/sateen Weave:
The
satin weave is characterized by floating yarns used to produce a high
lustre on one side of a fabric. Warp yarns of low twist float or pass
over four or more filling yarns. The low twist and the floating of the
warp yarns, together with the fiber content, give a high degree of light
reflection. Weights of satin fabrics range from chiffon satin to heavy
duchesse satin. The sateen weave is similar to a satin construction
except that in the sateen weave, the filling yarns float and are visible
on the surface of fabric. Examples: cotton sateen, and damask.
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